FAQ: Grooming for dogs

Self-cleaning brushes have a button that retracts the pins so the collected hair slides off easily. This is convenient when brushing a heavily shedding dog. It does not change how well the brush works — what matters most is that the pin type suits the coat.

Remove the hair after every session, and every few weeks wash the brush in warm water with mild soap and dry it well. If the dog has had a skin infection or parasites, disinfect the tools following the disinfectant's instructions. Dry metal tools so they do not rust.

Replace a brush when its pins bend, break or lose their protective tips, because they can then scratch the skin. Replace a comb if the teeth are bent or have sharp edges. Good metal tools last a long time if kept dry.

Yes, if the dogs have a similar coat type and are healthy. If one dog has parasites, ringworm or another skin condition, use a separate brush for each or clean it thoroughly between dogs. Different coats often need different tools anyway.

A soft brush or rubber glove suits a puppy: it does not scratch and helps make brushing a pleasant experience. When the puppy grows and its adult coat type shows, get tools suited to that coat. The key is short, frequent sessions rewarded with treats.

Usually a dog avoids brushing because it has hurt before, from mats, a brush pressed too hard or long sessions. Go back to short sessions, choose a gentler tool, brush after a walk when the dog is tired and reward it with treats. If the dog growls or shows pain, talk to a vet.

A dog is usually brushed dry or lightly misted with a grooming spray. A soaking wet coat is heavy, the hair breaks more easily and mats tighten. The exception is brushing while blow-drying after a bath, when you work slowly in sections.

It is a spray that moistens the hair and makes it slippery, so the brush glides more easily and the hair breaks and frizzes less. It is especially useful for long-haired dogs and for working out small tangles. Spray from a distance and keep it away from the eyes.

Double-coated dogs shed most heavily in spring and autumn, when they change their winter and summer undercoat. Dogs that spend a lot of time in warm indoor rooms may shed a little all year round. How much a dog sheds depends greatly on its breed.

Frequent brushing outdoors or on a balcony with a deshedding tool or rake helps most, so the dead hair ends up in the brush rather than on the floor. A bath with conditioner followed by blow-drying also removes a lot of undercoat. Cover the dog's resting spot with a washable throw.

No. Clipping shortens the hair, but the dog sheds just as much, only the fallen hairs are shorter. For double-coated dogs a short clip can even do harm, as the undercoat may grow back unevenly. Regular brushing is a more effective way to manage shedding.

Many vets and groomers advise against it: a double coat helps the dog regulate its temperature and protects the skin from the sun. Once clipped, the coat may grow back unevenly or with a changed texture. In summer it is better to brush out the dead undercoat thoroughly and provide shade and water.

Seasonal shedding is normal, but if hair falls out in patches, bald spots, redness or dandruff appear, the dog scratches or the coat does not grow back, see a vet. Hair loss can be caused by parasites, allergies, diet or hormonal problems.

Sticky lint rollers, rubber brushes or a damp rubber glove pick hair up well from fabric. A pet-hair attachment helps with the vacuum cleaner. Before washing clothes, shake them out or run them through a dryer without heat.

A warm bath with shampoo and conditioner loosens dead undercoat, so after it, once the dog is dried and brushed, a lot of hair comes out at once. Still, bathing every few days is not advisable — regular brushing remains the main tool.

In low-shedding dogs such as poodles, bichons or Yorkshire terriers the hair grows continuously and dead hair stays in the coat. So they need frequent brushing down to the skin and regular clipping. Shedding less does not mean less grooming — often it means more.

There are kits with grooming attachments that suck up the brushed-out hair straight away, so less hair is left around the house. They suit calm dogs that are not afraid of noise. Introduce the dog to the vacuum gradually and choose the attachment type to suit the coat.

Mats are tangled, compacted clumps of hair that form when dead hair stays in the coat and twists together with live hair. They appear faster where the coat rubs and when it gets wet. Mats pull on the skin, cause pain and can hide skin irritation underneath.

Spray detangler on the mat, carefully pull it apart with your fingers into smaller sections, then comb from the tip towards the skin while holding the hair at the base. Work slowly and take breaks. If the mat is dense and right against the skin, it is safer to remove it with clippers.

A mat splitter has several curved blades that slice a mat lengthwise so it is easier to comb out. Draw it from the skin outwards in the direction of hair growth, and never press it against the skin. With a restless dog, it is best to have someone help.