FAQ: Supplies for fish

No. zoogidas.lt only compares prices. The shop link takes you to the shop's own website, where you place and pay for the order.

Water care products come in bottles of different sizes. The price per litre shows which is really cheaper.

First choose a spot and a tank size, then get a filter, heater, lighting, substrate and water conditioner. Add fish only after the tank has run for a few weeks and the water has settled.

Cycling is the period when beneficial bacteria settle in the filter and substrate and convert ammonia and nitrite, which are toxic to fish, into less harmful nitrate. Without it, fish in a new tank often get sick or die.

Usually three to six weeks. Bacterial starter products or filter media from an established tank can speed it up, but ammonia and nitrite tests are the best way to tell whether the cycle is complete.

Not recommended. A freshly filled tank has no bacteria to break down fish waste yet, so ammonia quickly reaches dangerous levels. Wait until the tank has cycled and add fish a few at a time.

At first it is better to add only a small part of the planned stock, for example a few hardy species. Add the rest a week or two later so the bacteria can adjust to the growing waste load.

The essentials are a tank with a lid, a filter, a heater (for tropical fish), lighting, substrate, water conditioner, a thermometer and water tests. A net, a bucket, a gravel vacuum and food are also useful.

A kit usually already includes the tank, a lid with lighting, a filter and sometimes a heater, which makes it simpler for a beginner. Buying separately lets you pick stronger or quieter equipment, but you need to check that everything fits together.

In a new tank, cloudiness is often caused by a bacterial bloom or unwashed substrate. It usually clears within a few days to a week; avoid overfeeding and do not replace all the water at once.

Beginners often choose hardy species: guppies, mollies, platies, zebra danios, some tetras or corydoras catfish. Before buying, check what tank size and temperature they need.

A lid reduces evaporation, stops fish from jumping out and keeps dust and a curious cat out of the water. Many lids also have built-in lighting, which makes them a convenient option.

The best spot is a stable, level surface away from windows, radiators and draughts. Direct sunlight encourages algae and heats the water, and you need a power socket nearby and easy access for water changes.

A litre of water weighs about a kilogram, so a 100-litre tank with substrate, decor and glass can weigh 120–150 kg. That is why it needs a sturdy cabinet and a floor that can carry the weight.

Aquarium cabinets are designed to carry heavy loads and stay perfectly level. An ordinary piece of furniture can sag, and an uneven surface puts stress on the glass and can cause a crack.

A thin foam or purpose-made mat evens out small surface irregularities and spreads the weight more evenly. Manufacturers state whether their tank needs such a mat, so follow the instructions.

Beginners are often advised to choose a 60–100 litre tank. In a larger volume of water conditions change more slowly, so mistakes harm the fish less quickly, while small tanks are harder to look after than they seem.

Not always. In a small tank the temperature and water quality change very quickly, so you need to test and change the water more often. A larger tank takes up more space but is usually more stable.

Multiply the length, width and height in centimetres and divide by 1000. The actual amount of water is about 10–15% less, because substrate, decor and the gap below the rim take up part of the space.

Floor area and water surface matter most to fish, so a long, wide tank is usually better than a tall, narrow one. Round or very tall containers are harder to clean and their water takes up less oxygen.