FAQ: Grooming for dogs

It is risky: a mat often sits tight against the skin, which gets pulled up and is easily cut. If you do cut, slide a comb between the skin and the scissors, though clippers are better. Large mats formed against the skin are safest left to a groomer.

If mats cover a large part of the body, untangling them would be long and painful. In such a case the coat is usually clipped short and grown back, with regular brushing from then on. The skin under the mats may be irritated, so it is worth checking.

Brush the dog before the bath, and while washing do not rub the coat in circles, just stroke in the direction of the hair. Use conditioner, dry by patting with a towel and brush while blow-drying. Long hair left to air-dry often tangles.

Mats usually appear behind the ears, in the armpits, on the neck under a collar or harness, on the back legs, on the tail and between the toes. Check these spots with a metal comb every time you brush, because the coat can look tidy from above.

Many detangling sprays are fine for puppies too, but check the label for age limits. For young skin choose products without strong fragrance and do not spray near the face. In puppies, gentle regular brushing from an early age helps prevent mats.

Choose dog clippers that are powerful enough for your dog's coat, quiet and low in vibration. A thick or dense coat needs a stronger motor, while a lighter model is enough for small dogs and touch-ups. It helps if the blades are replaceable and several guide combs are included.

Cordless clippers are easier to handle because there is no cord in the way and the dog is less nervous, but the battery can run out mid-groom. Corded ones are often more powerful and suit long sessions on a thick coat. Some models can work both ways.

It is not recommended. Human clippers are usually designed for finer hair, heat up faster and jam in a dense coat, so they may pull the hair and nick the skin. They may do for a quick trim of a small area, but for the whole dog use clippers made for dogs.

The blade number shows how long it leaves the hair: the higher the number, the shorter the cut. Very short blades are used for paws or hygiene areas, longer ones for the body. If unsure, start longer — you can always go shorter, but growing hair back takes time.

After each session brush out the hair, oil the blades with clipper oil and, if needed, disinfect them with a blade spray. Dull blades pull hair and heat up faster, so they need sharpening or replacing. Store the clippers somewhere dry with a guard on the blades.

Hot blades can burn a dog's skin, especially during long, short clips. Check the blade temperature with your hand often, take breaks, use a coolant spray or swap in cooled blades. This matters especially for thin-skinned and small dogs.

Guide combs fit over the blade and leave the hair at an even length, so a beginner can clip evenly with less risk of nicking the skin. They suit longer body cuts. In a dense or matted coat they jam, so the dog must be brushed out before clipping.

First switch the clippers on at a distance and give a treat while the dog stays calm. Then touch the dog with the clippers switched off, and later switched on, without cutting. Keep clipping short, start with less sensitive areas and lengthen the sessions gradually.

A small trimmer is for detail work: trimming hair between the paw pads, around the eyes and ears and in hygiene areas. It is quieter and lighter, so it often scares the dog less. It is too weak for clipping the whole body.

The hair between the pads is easiest to trim with a small trimmer, holding the paw firmly but gently. Scissors are riskier because the dog may jerk its leg. Long hair here slips on floors and collects mud, snow and salt, so it is worth trimming regularly.

Hair around the eyes is best trimmed with a small trimmer or round-tipped scissors, cutting away from the eye. Hold the dog's head firmly under the chin and work only when the dog is calm. If the dog is anxious, leave this to a groomer.

Dogs with continuously growing coats, such as poodles, shih tzus or bichons, are usually clipped every few weeks so the coat does not mat. Short-haired and double-coated dogs usually do not need clipping; brushing and tidying the paws is enough. How often also depends on the length of the cut.

Clipping at home is convenient and less stressful for the dog if you have the right tools, patience and a calm dog. A groomer will deal with a matted coat faster, do a breed-specific cut and notice skin problems. Many owners combine both: brushing and tidying paws at home between groomer visits.

Trim the hair around the anus and genitals with a small trimmer or a short blade, very carefully, because the skin there is thin and sensitive. This means less faeces and urine sticks to the coat. If the dog is anxious or the skin is irritated, leave it to a groomer.

Dogs are trimmed with grooming scissors made from good steel: straight ones for outlines, curved ones for rounded shapes and thinning shears to soften transitions. At home, round-tipped scissors are the most useful. Household scissors tend to fold the hair rather than cut it.