FAQ: Collars & Leashes for dogs

It depends on the dog and the use. A harness puts no load on the neck, so it is often chosen for dogs that pull. If unsure, ask a vet or a trainer.

Measure the neck or chest and compare it with the manufacturer's size chart. Two fingers should fit between the collar and the neck.

A harness is usually chosen for dogs that pull, small breeds with a sensitive windpipe, flat-faced dogs and dogs with neck or back problems. It spreads pressure across the chest rather than the neck.

Many owners keep a light collar with an ID tag on the dog even if the lead is clipped to a harness. That makes a lost dog easier to identify, and the harness can come off at home.

Wrap a soft tailor's tape around the neck where the collar normally sits and add about two fingers of slack. Compare the result with the manufacturer's size chart, as sizes vary between makers.

If two fingers do not fit under the collar, the fur around it is worn, the skin is red or the dog often scratches its neck, the collar is probably too tight. Loosen it or replace it with a larger one.

If the collar slips easily over the dog's head or your whole hand fits underneath, it is too loose. Such a collar can slip off when the dog backs away or catch on objects.

Small dogs suit narrower, lightweight collars, while large and strong dogs need wider ones, as they spread pressure better and are sturdier. A very wide collar would be heavy and uncomfortable for a small dog.

Choosing the larger size that adjusts down to the needed length is usually advised, as a collar can always be tightened. For long-haired dogs or growing puppies, the larger size is especially practical.

Yes, measure where the collar will be worn, over fur lying naturally, without pressing it down hard. A thick winter coat can increase the measurement, so an adjustable collar is handier for such a dog.

Usually the chest girth is measured at the widest point just behind the front legs, and for some harnesses the neck at the base by the shoulders too. Compare the measurements with the manufacturer's chart rather than relying on weight alone.

Weight can only be a rough guide, because dogs of the same weight can have very different chest shapes and girths. Chest and neck measurements are the most reliable guide.

Two fingers should fit under each strap, and the harness should not slide sideways or rub the armpits. The chest strap should sit a few fingers behind the front legs so it does not restrict movement.

Usually because of the wrong size or shape – the chest strap sits too close to the front legs or the harness is too loose and shifts. Try adjusting the straps or choosing a harness of a different shape or with softer padding.

Deep-chested dogs such as sighthounds or Dobermanns do well with harnesses that have several adjustment points and separately adjustable neck and chest straps. This helps the harness fit closely and not slip off.

Before ordering, measure the chest and neck and compare them with that particular manufacturer's size chart. It is also worth checking the shop's return policy in case the size does not fit.

It is an everyday flat collar with a metal or plastic buckle and a ring for the lead and ID tag. It suits most dogs that walk calmly, while for dogs that pull a harness is often chosen.

A martingale collar tightens only to a limited extent when the lead is pulled, so it is hard to slip out of, yet it does not choke like a chain. It is often used for sighthounds and other dogs whose head is narrower than their neck.

Choke chains that tighten without limit can press on the windpipe and injure the neck, so many vets and trainers do not recommend them. For dogs that pull, a well-fitting harness and loose-lead training are safer.

Prong collars work by causing discomfort or pain, so modern training and most vets advise against them, and some countries ban them. Positive training methods are more effective and safer.