FAQ: Grooming for dogs

On a warm summer day you can, but hose water is often very cold, and water from a hose left in the sun is hot at first. Check the temperature, use a gentle flow and do not let the dog roll on the ground until it is dry.

First wipe or rinse off as much of the dirt as you can with water, then bathe the dog with shampoo, twice if needed. Choose a dog shampoo meant to neutralise odours. Protect the eyes and mouth, because some foul substances may not be safe.

Dedicated or collapsible bathing tubs are handy for small and medium dogs when there is no bathtub at home or you do not want hair in it. For large dogs a shower tray with a non-slip mat is usually enough. Measure your dog before buying.

Brush the dog well before the bath so there is less loose hair, and put a hair catcher or strainer over the drain. After the bath, collect the hair and throw it in the bin rather than down the drain.

Short-haired dogs usually do well with a bristle brush, a rubber grooming glove or a rubber brush, which pick up loose hair and massage the skin. If the dog has a dense undercoat, like a Labrador, a deshedding tool also helps during the moult.

Long-haired dogs usually need a pin brush or a slicker brush plus a metal comb for the final check. Brush right down to the skin, layer by layer, otherwise mats form close to the skin and go unnoticed.

For dogs with a thick undercoat, such as huskies, shepherds or spitz breeds, an undercoat rake, a slicker brush and a comb with wide and narrow teeth are useful. During the moult they need brushing more often so the dead undercoat does not felt into mats.

It is a brush with many thin, slightly bent metal pins that removes loose hair and small tangles. Use it with light strokes and no pressure, because pressing hard can scratch the skin. Be especially careful where the coat is thin.

A brush with straight pins, often ball-tipped, is meant for brushing out and smoothing long, straight or silky coats. It pulls the hair less than a slicker brush, so it suits daily brushing, but it is less effective at removing a dense undercoat.

A bristle brush with natural or synthetic bristles suits short, smooth coats: it picks up dust and loose hair, spreads the skin's natural oils and adds shine. For long or dense coats it is too weak and does not reach the skin.

An undercoat rake is a tool with one or two rows of long metal teeth that go through the top coat and pull out dead undercoat. It is meant for double-coated dogs, especially during the moult. Choose the tooth length to match the coat's thickness.

A deshedding tool has a finely toothed metal edge that catches and pulls out dead undercoat without cutting the live hair. It is very effective during the moult but unsuitable for curly or silky coats, or for dogs that barely shed.

It can. Used too often or too hard, the tool can thin the top coat, break hairs and irritate the skin. It is usually used in short sessions, mostly during the moult, while an ordinary brush is enough the rest of the time. Follow the maker's instructions.

A rubber grooming glove with soft nubs picks up loose hair while massaging the skin. It especially suits short-haired dogs and those that dislike brushes, because grooming feels like stroking. The glove can also be used while shampooing.

The most practical choice is a metal comb with wide teeth on one half and fine teeth on the other. The wide part detangles long hair, the fine part checks the coat and handles small areas such as the face and ears. The teeth should have rounded tips.

It depends on the coat: short-haired dogs usually need brushing once or twice a week, long-haired and curly dogs daily or every other day. During the moult brush more often. Regular brushing also helps you spot ticks, small wounds or skin changes in time.

Brush in the direction of hair growth, in small sections, holding long hair at the base with your hand so you do not pull the skin. Start at the tips and work gradually towards the skin. Do not rip out mats — tease them apart with your fingers or a tool, and take frequent breaks.

A curly coat is usually brushed with a slicker brush, layer by layer down to the skin, and then checked with a metal comb. Such a coat hardly sheds, so dead hair stays in it and quickly turns into mats. Besides regular brushing, these dogs need clipping every few weeks.

Wire-haired dogs, such as many terriers and schnauzers, need not only brushing but also occasional hand-stripping to remove dead hair. Frequent clipping can soften the coat and change its colour. Choose a shampoo that does not soften the hair.

Hand-stripping means plucking out dead hair with the fingers or a stripping knife, which grips the hair rather than cutting it. It is used on wire-haired dogs and, done properly, is painless. Beginners should learn from an experienced groomer.