FAQ: Grooming for dogs

Shampoos for the shedding season help loosen dead hair so it is easier to brush out. Shedding itself depends on the season and breed, so shampoo does not stop it — regular brushing before and after the bath helps most.

It is not recommended. Some dog shampoos, especially antiparasitic ones, contain substances that can be very dangerous to cats, and essential oils are unsuitable for cats too. Use only cat products on a cat.

Keep shampoo tightly closed in a cool place, away from direct sunlight and frost. The pack often shows how many months it lasts once opened (an open-jar symbol). If the smell, colour or texture has changed, stop using it.

It is a spray or lotion applied to a dry or damp coat and not rinsed out. It makes brushing easier and reduces static and tangling between baths. Do not spray it into the eyes or on broken skin.

Shampoos for dark coats contain pigments or additives that give the coat more shine and a richer tone. It makes no difference to the dog's health; it is mostly about looks, for example before a show. An ordinary mild shampoo is enough for everyday care.

For most dogs a bath every few weeks or even less often is enough — when they get dirty or start to smell. Bathing with shampoo too often can dry out the skin. For long-haired and clipped dogs, baths are often timed with grooming.

Bathe your dog in lukewarm water, roughly what would feel pleasant for a baby — test it with your wrist or elbow. Water that is too hot can scald and dry the skin, while cold water causes shivering, especially in small, young and old dogs.

First brush the coat and get towels and a non-slip mat ready. Wet the dog from the neck towards the tail, massage in the shampoo while avoiding the eyes and ears, rinse thoroughly and wipe the head with a damp cloth. Finally dry the dog well and do not let it get cold.

Do not pour water straight over the head; wiping it with a damp cloth is better. Some owners loosely place a cotton ball at the ear opening, which must be removed after the bath. Afterwards, gently dry the ear flaps.

You can, if you use a cool or only warm setting, hold the dryer at a distance and keep it moving. Hot air can burn skin that the dog does not feel straight away through its coat. Many dogs fear the noise, so get them used to it gradually.

A high-velocity dryer blows a strong stream of unheated air that pushes water and dead undercoat out of a thick coat. It greatly shortens drying for large or dense-coated dogs, but it is loud, so the dog needs to be introduced to it patiently.

Microfibre towels absorb a lot of water and dry quickly, which makes them handy for drying a dog. Do not rub the coat hard — long hair tangles that way; press and pat instead. Keep the dog's towels separate and wash them often.

Yes, but after the bath the dog must be dried completely and kept out of the cold for a few hours, especially if its coat is thick and slow to dry. In winter it is often enough to wash the paws and belly after walks and bathe the whole dog less often.

After the sea, rinse your dog with fresh water, because salt and sand dry the skin and can irritate it. After a lake or river it also helps to wash off the mud and dry the ears. Shampoo is not needed every time — clean water is often enough.

Put a non-slip rubber mat or an old towel on the bottom of the bath or shower tray. A stable footing reduces the dog's fear and prevents injuries. Small dogs are easier to bathe in a sink or a dedicated tub.

Yes, especially a long-haired or fluffy dog. Water tightens mats and they become much harder to untangle after the bath. Brushing beforehand removes dead hair and lets the shampoo reach the skin better.

Go step by step: first let the dog spend time in an empty bath and reward it with a treat, then wet only the paws. Use lukewarm water, a calm voice and a gentle flow rather than a strong shower. Do not rush, and finish while the dog is still calm.

After surgery a dog is usually not bathed until the wound has healed and the stitches are out, because moisture can raise the risk of infection. The vet who operated will tell you exactly when, and how to keep the dog clean until then.

Paws are easy to wash in lukewarm water in a bowl or a paw-washing cup, then dry with a towel, especially between the toes. In winter this removes road salt, in autumn mud. Moisture between the toes can irritate the skin, so dry them carefully.

It is a container with silicone bristles inside: you add water, put the dog's paw in and twist a few times so the bristles clean off the mud. It is handy after walks, especially when the dog is big and carrying it to the bath is awkward. Choose the size by paw width.