FAQ: Supplies for small pets

Yes, rats often toilet in one corner, so a corner litter tray placed there with a different filler from the rest of the cage helps train them. At first, move droppings into the tray.

Remove wet litter and hay daily or every other day, and wash and refill the whole box several times a week. That keeps the smell down and the rabbit uses it more willingly.

Rabbit urine leaves limescale deposits, which diluted vinegar dissolves best. Leave it for a few minutes, scrub, rinse well with water and dry.

They are not needed for routine cleaning; if you do disinfect, for example after an illness, choose a pet-safe product, rinse it off well and dry the cage. Strong-smelling residues irritate the airways.

A hamster marks its territory with its scent, so cleaning the cage out completely stresses it. Clean the toilet corner often and change part of the bedding, but leave the nest unless it is wet, just removing spoiling food from its store.

Wash the bottle in hot water with a bottle brush to remove deposits and algae, and rinse out any detergent thoroughly. Ceramic bowls can also go in the dishwasher.

Wood absorbs urine, so scrape off the dirt, wash with hot water and let it dry completely, ideally in the sun. Wooden items that are heavily soaked or mouldy are better replaced.

Paper, wood or hay bedding with herbivore droppings can often be composted, and rabbit droppings make good fertiliser. Otherwise, dispose of the bedding with mixed waste according to local rules.

Support the chest with one hand and the hindquarters with the other, and hold the rabbit close to your body. Never lift it by the ears or the scruff, and keep it low, as many rabbits dislike being lifted.

Give it a few days to settle in, talk to it in the evenings and offer a treat from your hand until it starts climbing onto your palm by itself. Do not wake it during the day or grab it from above.

Scoop one hand under its chest, support its rear with the other, and hold it against you once lifted. It is safest to hold it sitting on the floor or low down, so it does not fall from a height if it wriggles free.

Usually out of fear, when woken suddenly, when hands smell of food, because of hormones or pain. Move slowly, wash your hands before handling and get it used to you gradually; if the biting continues, have its health checked by a vet.

Many chinchillas dislike being held, so let them come to you. When picking one up, support its whole body and never grab its fur, as a frightened chinchilla can shed a clump of fur.

Be patient, offer unsweetened treats from your hand and let the degus climb onto you themselves. Never lift them by the tail – the skin can slip off and the tail will be injured.

The tail skin of degus, gerbils and other rodents can slip off or the tail can break, and for rats and mice it causes pain and injury. Always support the animal's body.

It is best when the child sits on the floor and strokes the animal calmly, without chasing it or lifting it high. Hands should be washed after contact, and an adult should always supervise young children's play with the animal.

Close the doors, block gaps and place a bucket with a ramp, bedding and food on the floor – at night the animal will climb in and won't get out. Check dark spots behind furniture and near heaters.

Leaps with a twist of the body mean joy, flopping onto its side means complete relaxation, and thumping a hind leg is an alarm signal. Flattened ears show fear, quiet tooth grinding shows contentment and loud grinding shows pain.

Baby rabbits usually not before 8 weeks, guinea pig pups at around 3–4 weeks, hamsters at around 4 weeks and rat pups at around 5–6 weeks. Choose an animal that has been properly weaned.

Make moving around easier for older animals: lower platforms, soft bedding, food and water within easy reach. Monitor weight and teeth more often, and see the vet more regularly.