FAQ: Supplies for small pets

Usually a small pet is better off staying home with someone looking after it, as travel and a new place are stressful. If you do take it, bring familiar items, its usual food and water, and check in advance that pets are allowed where you are staying.

Arrange a sitter who visits the animal every day, and leave written instructions, a food supply and your vet's contact details. Rabbits and guinea pigs need checking at least once a day.

It is not recommended: the bottle can get blocked or leak, food can run out, and an animal that falls ill would be left without help. Someone should check on it at least once a day.

A bottle can drip while moving, so it is better to offer water when you stop. On a short journey, juicy vegetables such as cucumber also provide moisture, if they suit your pet.

On public transport an animal can usually travel in a closed carrier, but check the carrier company's rules in advance. Many airlines do not accept rodents in the cabin, and long journeys are best avoided.

Cover part of the carrier with breathable fabric, add bedding with a familiar scent, and keep the surroundings quiet and the temperature steady. Do not open the carrier unnecessarily.

Requirements for rabbits and rodents differ between countries and often do not match the rules for dogs or cats. Check in advance with the authorities of the country you are going to and with your vet.

A small plastic box with fine ventilation holes the animal cannot squeeze through or chew open, and a secure latch, works well. Add bedding and a small hide.

It is hard to sex young animals, so it is best to have a vet or experienced breeder check. In general the distance between the anus and the genital opening is greater in males than in females; a mistake ends in unexpected babies.

Syrian hamsters are solitary and defend their territory, so adults kept together fight badly and get injured. Never keep them in pairs or groups.

Dwarf hamsters from the same litter that grew up together sometimes get along, but fights are common and can start unexpectedly. They need a large cage with several houses and wheels, and they must be separated if they fall out.

It works best when both rabbits are neutered. Introduce them on neutral ground in short, supervised sessions and patiently extend the time; the process can take several weeks.

First keep the newcomer separate for a couple of weeks, then introduce them in a neutral area with plenty of hay and two hides. Rumbling and strutting are normal, but separate them if there is biting.

Yes, especially brothers, if they have enough space, a house each and no females nearby to make them compete. Another common option is a neutered male with one or more females.

At least two, and better still three of the same sex. A single rat feels lonely even with plenty of human contact, but a larger group also needs a larger cage.

Female mice are social and should live in groups. Males often fight, so sometimes they have to be kept singly, but then they need more activities and attention.

Degus are very social and must live at least in pairs, ideally in small groups. Chinchillas are often kept in same-sex pairs, but they need to be introduced carefully and gradually.

A new animal may carry illnesses or parasites that are not visible straight away. Keep it in a separate cage for about two weeks, watch its health, and only then introduce it to the others.

Rabbits choose a corner themselves, so put the litter box there and add hay on top, as they like to eat while toileting. Put a few droppings in the box and praise success; neutered rabbits are easier to train.

Partly: some guinea pigs readily use a corner tray next to the hay rack. Still, they are not as reliable as rabbits, so the bedding in the whole cage still needs changing.