FAQ: Treats for small pets

In moderation. Treats should be only a small part of the diet, and sweet ones an occasional extra, because too much sugar and fat leads to obesity and digestive upsets.

The teeth of rodents and rabbits grow throughout their lives, so chewing hay, twigs and other hard things wears them down naturally. Chewing also relieves boredom.

Treats are not essential for a healthy diet, but they help tame and train the animal, encourage foraging and add variety to its day. The key is that they complement the usual diet rather than replace it.

A small piece of treat can be given daily if it is not sweet, for example dried herbs or a hay cube. Sweeter treats such as dried fruit are better given only a few times a week and in very small amounts.

Everyday food is formulated so the animal gets all the nutrients it needs, while treats are for variety, training and enrichment. Treats cannot replace food or hay, because the diet would become unbalanced.

Hay and hard, fibrous items help most: fruit-tree or willow twigs, hay cubes, dried roots and undyed wooden chews. Soft and sweet treats do nothing to wear the teeth down.

No. Rabbits and guinea pigs must eat hay all the time, because only long, side-to-side chewing wears the molars evenly. Chews and twigs are an addition, not a substitute.

Apple, pear, willow, hazel, birch and aspen twigs are generally considered safe. They should be free of chemical sprays, collected away from roads, washed and dried.

Avoid branches of stone fruit trees (cherry, plum, apricot, peach), oak, yew, thuja, oleander and other poisonous plants, as well as resinous conifers. If you are not sure what tree it is, do not give it.

Yes, if you know the tree species for certain and it grew in an unsprayed spot away from roads and dog-walking paths. Wash the twigs, dry them thoroughly and do not give mouldy ones or ones covered in lichen.

Wash the twigs in warm water, cut off damaged parts and let them dry well. Some owners briefly heat them in an oven at a low temperature to remove insects; fresh leafy twigs can also be given straight away if the animal is used to them.

Choose unpainted, unvarnished wooden chews, or ones coloured with food dyes and labelled as made for small pets. Varnish, glue and industrial paint can be harmful because the animal chews everything and swallows some of it.

If the animal eats a complete food, it usually does not need extra minerals. Too much calcium can promote urinary sludge in rabbits and guinea pigs, so it is worth discussing mineral stones with a vet.

Many vets consider salt licks unnecessary when the animal gets a proper diet. If you do use one, make sure the animal only licks it rather than gnawing off large amounts, and always has fresh water.

Rough stones may help the front teeth a little, but they do not wear down the molars. The main dental care is hay and fibrous food; the animal may simply ignore the stone.

Hay cubes are compressed hay, sometimes with herbs or vegetables added. They suit rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas and degus as a hard, fibrous chew, but they do not replace loose hay.

Natural loofah is a soft plant fibre that most rodents and rabbits happily chew. Choose undyed loofah with no additives, and throw it away once it is soaked or falling apart.

Woven seagrass, corn husk or wicker toys are popular chews for rabbits and guinea pigs. Check that they have no metal wires, glue or paint, and replace them when they get wet or fall apart.

Plain, unprinted cardboard such as toilet roll tubes is usually safe as a toy and chew. Avoid glossy, sticky or heavily printed cardboard, and watch that the animal does not swallow much of it.

Coconut shells are hard and durable, so they work as a hide or chew for rats, hamsters and degus. Check that the edges are sanded smooth and there are no sharp splinters.