FAQ: Food for small pets

Not always – their needs differ. Rabbit pellets usually have no added vitamin C, which a guinea pig must get every day, so choose food made for your pet's species.

Packs range from a few hundred grams to several kilograms, and the price per kilogram compares them directly.

The fibre in hay keeps the gut moving, and the long chewing wears down constantly growing teeth. Hay should make up most of a rabbit's diet, around 80%, and be available without limit.

A rabbit should have unlimited hay. As a rough guide, a pile about the size of the rabbit itself every day; top it up when it runs low and throw away old, trampled hay.

A guinea pig must always have unlimited fresh hay, as it is the basis of its diet. If the hay runs out, digestion suffers and the teeth do not wear down as they should.

Timothy hay is made mostly from a single grass species, so it is consistent and coarsely fibrous. Meadow hay is a mix of different grasses and herbs with a more varied smell and taste; both suit adult herbivores.

Alfalfa hay is high in protein and calcium, so it suits growing youngsters, pregnant or nursing females and, on a vet's advice, underweight animals. Feeding it to adults all the time can lead to urinary stones.

Good hay is greenish, smells pleasant, is dry, low in dust and has long stems. A musty smell, grey or white patches, dampness or lots of fine dust show that the hay is not suitable.

Throw away the affected hay and do not try to pick out clean parts, as mould spores harm the airways and digestion. Check that the rest of your hay is stored dry and ventilated.

The colour depends on when the grass was cut, the drying weather and the sun. Yellowish hay is not necessarily bad if it smells pleasant, is not dusty and is not mouldy, but very brown, stale hay is usually less nutritious.

First-cut hay is coarser, with more stems and fibre, so it wears the teeth down well. Second-cut hay is softer and leafier and often more popular with fussy eaters; the two can also be mixed.

Try a different type or cut of hay, a fresh pack, cut back on pellets and treats, and put hay in several places. If the animal refuses hay for longer, its teeth may hurt – see a vet.

Fine dust irritates small pets' airways and eyes, particularly in sensitive guinea pigs and chinchillas. Choose dust-extracted hay, and stop buying any that is very dusty.

Keep hay in a dry, ventilated, cool place, out of the sun and not directly on the floor. A cardboard box or breathable bag works well; never seal damp hay airtight.

Moisture builds up in a sealed plastic bag and the hay can go mouldy. Keeping it briefly in the original pack with ventilation holes is fine, but for longer a breathable bag or box is better.

Hay stored dry keeps for several months, but over time it loses its aroma and some nutrients. An opened pack is best used up within a few months, checking the smell each time.

In a rack the hay stays clean and less is wasted, and for rabbits it is worth putting some hay in the litter box too. Choose a rack the animal cannot push its head into and get stuck.

Small pets pick out the tastiest stems and throw the rest around – this is normal, and some hay is always wasted. Give smaller fresh portions more often and use a rack.

Compressed cubes provide fibre and are good for chewing, but loose long-stem hay wears the teeth better and allows natural foraging. Use cubes as an extra, not instead of hay.

Yes, natural herb or flower additions make hay more interesting and add variety to the diet. Check that no sugar or artificial flavourings have been added and that the herbs suit your pet's species.