FAQ: Food for small pets

As a rough guide, about a handful of leafy greens per kilogram of the rabbit's body weight per day, split into several portions. Start with a smaller amount and watch the droppings.

Give one new green in a small amount and watch the droppings for a day. If they become soft, stop that green for a while, and if all is well, increase the amount gradually.

No, bread, biscuits, cereals and other baked goods are high in starch and sugar, which upset a rabbit's gut flora. Offer hay or greens instead.

Occasionally a small piece of apple without seeds, banana or a few berries is fine, but only as a treat because of the high sugar content. Fruit should not be given every day.

A young rabbit needs unlimited hay, including alfalfa, and pellets made for youngsters. Start giving fresh greens only later and in very small amounts, as its digestion is still sensitive.

It is often advised to start from about 12 weeks of age, one kind at a time and in very small amounts. Before that, the youngster's gut is too sensitive and digestion can be upset.

Usually from about 6 months to a year of age, alfalfa hay is gradually replaced with grass hay and the amount of pellets is reduced. The transition should take several weeks.

The feeding principles are the same, just with smaller portions according to weight. Dwarf breeds have dental problems more often, so hay is especially important for them.

No, adult rabbits do not digest dairy, and yoghurt treats are also high in sugar. Only plant-based food suits a rabbit.

Small, dry droppings can mean the rabbit eats too little hay, drinks too little or is in pain, while soft, sticky ones point to too many pellets, too much sugar or a sudden food change. If the change persists or droppings stop, see a vet.

Dandelion, plantain, yarrow, chamomile and a small amount of clover are suitable. Only pick plants you can identify with certainty, and only in clean places.

Yes, dried dandelion, raspberry or blackberry leaves, chamomile and other herbs are a good source of fibre and a natural treat. Choose ones without added sugar.

Like humans, guinea pigs cannot make vitamin C themselves, so they must get it from food every day. A lack of it leads to scurvy: sore joints, weaker immunity, a poor coat and bleeding gums.

The main source is fresh vitamin C-rich vegetables every day, such as bell pepper, plus fresh guinea pig pellets with added vitamin C. For a sick or pregnant guinea pig, ask a vet about extra amounts.

Bell pepper, especially red and yellow, kale, parsley, broccoli and Brussels sprouts are rich in vitamin C. Parsley and kale are also high in calcium, so give them in moderation.

No, vitamin C in pellets breaks down over time, especially with heat and light. Check the production or best-before date, choose smaller packs, keep them sealed in a cool, dark place, and let fresh vegetables remain the main source.

It is usually not recommended: vitamin C breaks down quickly in water, it is hard to know how much the animal gets, and the changed taste can reduce drinking. It is better obtained from food, and supplements should be used only on a vet's advice.

Lethargy, reluctance to move, painful or swollen joints, a rough coat, reduced appetite, bleeding gums and slow-healing wounds. If you notice these signs, see a vet without delay.

Unlimited hay, fresh greens and vegetables every day, a small portion of guinea pig pellets with vitamin C, and fresh water. Treats only now and then.

Potatoes and their leaves, onions, garlic, leeks, avocado, rhubarb, raw beans and mushrooms are unsuitable. Guinea pigs are herbivores, so meat, dairy and bread must not be given.