FAQ: Supplies for reptiles

Droppings, shed skin and food leftovers are removed daily, and the water dish is washed and refilled daily or every other day. Every few weeks the terrarium gets a thorough clean, and the substrate is changed according to its type.

Yes, reptiles often carry salmonella even when they look healthy. Wash your hands after touching a reptile, its equipment or water, do not wash terrarium items in the kitchen sink, and supervise young children.

Reptiles can be fascinating for a family, but young children need adult supervision because of the salmonella risk and because a reptile can be dropped or squeezed. Responsibility for care always stays with an adult.

Yes, as long as the terrarium is firmly closed and locked and the cat or dog cannot reach it or knock it over. Even seeing a predator through the glass stresses some reptiles, so place the terrarium somewhere quiet.

See a vet if the reptile does not eat for a long time, loses weight, is lethargic, breathes with difficulty, has mucus from the nose or mouth, swollen eyes or joints, a softening shell or retained shed. Reptiles hide illness for a long time, so it is better not to wait.

Reptiles are very different from dogs and cats, so it pays to find a vet who treats exotic animals in advance. A check-up soon after getting the animal is advisable to assess its general condition and test for parasites.

If you already have reptiles, the new animal is usually kept for several weeks in a separate terrarium in another room and cared for with separate tools. This reduces the risk of passing mites, parasites or disease to the others.

Before shedding the skin becomes duller and snakes' eyes turn cloudy blue, because new skin is forming under the old one. During this time make sure humidity is right, offer a humid hide and leave the reptile alone.

It is a common reptile illness in which bones and shell weaken due to a lack of calcium, vitamin D3 or UVB. It is prevented with a proper UVB lamp replaced on time, calcium supplements and a suitable diet, and a vet is needed as soon as signs appear.

Many insect-eating and omnivorous reptiles are given a multivitamin powder occasionally, because captive insect diets are limited. Too many vitamins also cause harm, so follow the label for frequency and ask your vet.

Pick a reptile up from below, supporting its whole body, rather than grabbing it from above like a predator. Never lift a lizard by the tail, as some species drop it, and support a snake at several points along its body.

For the first days or weeks a new reptile may eat little and hide a lot. During this time it is best not to handle it, just keep conditions right, and later get it used to hands calmly in short sessions.

Lizards and tortoises travel in a small, well-ventilated carrier with soft bedding, and snakes in a cloth bag placed inside a sturdy box. In cold weather the carrier needs insulation, and on hot days it must be kept out of the sun and a hot car.

In winter it is best to carry a reptile in an insulated box, for example polystyrene, with a heat pack wrapped in a towel so the animal does not touch it directly. Keep the journey as short as possible and never leave the reptile in a cold car.

Adult reptiles can go a short while without food, but heating, light and water must keep running. For a longer trip, ask someone reliable to visit, leave clear instructions and make sure the lamps run on a timer and the thermostat is reliable.

A reptile is usually better off staying home, because travel and new surroundings are stressful and proper heating and UVB are hard to set up temporarily. If a trip cannot be avoided, you will need a temporary enclosure with heating, a thermometer and a secure travel box.

During a short power cut, cover the terrarium with a blanket to keep the heat in longer. For longer outages, heat packs, a bottle of warm water or an uninterruptible power supply help, and the reptile can be moved temporarily into a smaller insulated box.

On hot days the terrarium temperature can exceed the safe limit even with the lamps off, so a thermostat, a shaded room, ventilation and keeping the terrarium away from windows all help. The cool zone must stay cooler than the basking spot.

Rooms are often cooler in winter and the air drier during the heating season, so you may need a stronger heater, insulation on the back of the terrarium or more frequent misting. A thermometer and hygrometer will show whether conditions stay right.

Many reptiles respond to shorter days and cooler surroundings, becoming less active and eating less in winter. If the reptile refuses food for a long time, loses weight or looks unwell, check the temperatures and see a vet.