FAQ: Supplies for reptiles

Reptiles are heated with basking lamps, ceramic heat emitters that heat without light, heat mats and strips, heat cables and water heaters for turtles. The device is chosen by species, terrarium size and whether heat should come from above or below.

A thermostat switches the heater off when the set temperature is reached and stops the terrarium from overheating, for example in summer or if another device fails. Heat mats and ceramic emitters without a thermostat can get hot enough to burn a reptile.

Heat rocks often heat unevenly and can burn the belly, because a reptile does not sense an overly hot surface the way a mammal does. It is safer to heat from above with a lamp or ceramic emitter and use a non-electric basking rock warmed by the lamp.

For many species the temperature can drop by a few degrees at night, but not below the species' safe limit. If the room gets cool at night, a non-light source such as a ceramic heat emitter with a thermostat is used so sleep is not disturbed.

Red and blue night bulbs often disturb reptiles' sleep because many of them can see that light. It is better to keep it dark at night and, if heat is needed, use a heater that gives off no light.

UVB rays let a reptile make vitamin D3 in its skin, without which calcium cannot be absorbed. In day-active lizards and tortoises a lack of UVB can cause bone and shell problems, so a lamp is essential equipment for them.

UVB lamps vary in strength: desert species such as bearded dragons need stronger ones, while forest and twilight species need weaker ones. The right strength also depends on the distance to the reptile and whether there is mesh between the lamp and the animal.

A UVB lamp's output drops well before the bulb burns out, even though the light looks the same. Manufacturers state a replacement interval, usually from six months to a year, so it helps to note the date you fitted it.

No. Ordinary window glass blocks most UVB rays, so a reptile next to a window gets almost none. Sun through glass can also overheat the terrarium quickly.

Most reptiles do well with 10–14 hours of light a day, slightly longer in summer and shorter in winter. A timer is the easiest way to control the lamps so the day and night rhythm stays steady even when you are away.

A timer is not mandatory but very handy: it switches the lamps on and off at the same time every day, keeping the reptile's rhythm steady. There are simple mechanical and digital timers, and some thermostats have a day and night mode.

Glass terrariums give a good view and are easy to clean, wooden or plastic ones hold heat better, and mesh ones give lots of airflow and suit chameleons. The choice depends on the species' humidity and heat needs and the room temperature.

Front-opening doors are more convenient: cleaning, feeding and picking up the animal are easier, and reptiles are less startled than when a hand comes down from above. Top-opening tanks suit aquatic turtles better.

Without airflow, humidity builds up in the terrarium, water condenses on the glass, mould and bacteria grow, and the reptile can develop respiratory illness. Good terrariums have vents both low down and at the top.

Yes, many keepers build terrariums from wood or boards, especially for large lizards and tortoises. It is important to use non-toxic materials and a moisture-resistant finish, install the electrics safely and make sure it is ventilated and escape-proof.

Reptiles are kept on desert sand and clay mixes, coco fibre, bark, beech chips, sphagnum moss, soil for bioactive setups, mats and tiles. The substrate is chosen by the species' humidity needs and whether the animal digs.

Cedar and other aromatic softwood shavings are often advised against, as their fumes can irritate the airways, as are very dusty or sharp materials. Fine-particle substrates pose a swallowing risk for juveniles.

Pure fine sand can be swallowed with food, especially by juveniles or reptiles kept in poor conditions. Many keepers choose a sand and clay mix for desert species, which firms up, and serve food from a bowl.

Droppings and dirt are removed daily, and the whole substrate is usually replaced every few weeks or months, depending on its type and the animal's size. In bioactive terrariums with clean-up crews the substrate is changed much less often.

A bioactive terrarium uses soil, live plants and small clean-up crews such as isopods and springtails, which break down droppings and food leftovers. It costs more to set up, but the substrate needs replacing far less often afterwards.