FAQ: Supplies for reptiles

A crested gecko lives in trees, so it needs a tall terrarium with branches and plants, a sprayer to keep humidity up, moisture-holding substrate and a dedicated complete powdered diet. Room temperature or gentle heating is usually enough for it.

Chameleons usually need a tall, well-ventilated mesh enclosure, plenty of live plants and branches, UVB and basking lamps and a dripper or misting system, because they rarely drink from a bowl. They are more demanding than most beginner reptiles.

An adult green iguana can grow to around one and a half metres or more including the tail, so it needs a very large, tall enclosure, often custom-built. Before buying a juvenile, consider whether such a setup will fit in your home.

A corn snake needs a securely closing terrarium, a heat mat or lamp with a thermostat, a thermometer, at least two hides, branches to climb, substrate, a water dish and frozen mice of the right size. Snakes are excellent at finding gaps, so the lid must lock.

A royal python usually needs a slightly warmer setup, higher humidity and sturdier, snug hides, as it likes to tuck itself away. An adult python is heavier, so the decor and terrarium need to be sturdy.

A common rule is that the terrarium should be at least as long as the snake, with depth and height at least half its length. Height also matters for climbing species, so check the size for the specific species.

Many snakes can live without UVB because they get vitamin D from whole prey, but more and more keepers and vets recommend a low-strength UVB lamp and a light cycle. Either way, a snake needs a clear day and night rhythm.

A land tortoise needs a roomy open enclosure or terrarium, a basking lamp, a strong UVB lamp, a thermometer, a hide, a substrate suitable for digging, a shallow water dish, a calcium supplement and plenty of greens. A small glass tank is not suitable for an adult tortoise.

Floor area matters most for tortoises because they walk a lot. Even a small species is often recommended an enclosure at least 120 cm long, and an adult needs more. Many keepers also use a secure outdoor pen in summer.

A closed glass tank often traps humidity and heat, and the tortoise keeps trying to walk through the glass, which stresses it. An open wooden enclosure with opaque walls makes it easier to manage airflow and the temperature gradient.

On warm summer days many species can stay in a secure outdoor pen with shade, a hide and water. The pen must be protected from predators and escapes, and on cool nights or in rainy weather it is better to bring the tortoise inside.

An aquatic turtle needs a large aquaterrarium, a powerful filter, a water heater, a dry basking platform, a basking lamp, a UVB lamp, a thermometer and dedicated aquatic turtle food. The water must be deep enough to swim, and the platform must let the turtle dry off completely.

A red-eared slider grows fairly large, so an adult is often recommended a tank of several hundred litres and at least 120 cm long. A common rule is water depth at least one and a half times the shell length.

Aquatic turtles eat a lot and produce a lot of waste, so the water gets dirty quickly. A common tip is to choose a filter rated for two or three times the water volume in the tank and to change part of the water regularly.

The platform must be stable, large enough for the turtle to climb fully out of the water and easy to reach from the bottom. The basking and UVB lamps go above it so the turtle can dry off completely and warm up.

No. In a small tub the water quickly fouls and the temperature is wrong, and there is no room to swim and no heating or UVB. Hatchlings kept in small tubs often get sick, so they need a proper aquaterrarium from the start.

Aquatic turtles often chase and eat fish, and the waste levels in turtle water do not suit fish. So they are usually kept separately, and small fish are sometimes given only as food.

Aquatic turtles need filters, water heaters, basking platforms and floating food, while land tortoises need a dry enclosure, a substrate for digging, greens and dried herbs. Only the basking and UVB lamps and calcium supplements are shared.

Some land and aquatic species hibernate in the wild and others do not. Hibernating at home requires precise temperature control and a healthy animal, so talk to a reptile vet beforehand and find out your species' needs.

A temperature gradient means one end of the terrarium has a warm basking zone and the other end is cooler. The reptile moves between them to regulate its body temperature, so the heater goes at one end, not in the middle.