FAQ: Supplies for reptiles

A reptile needs at least two hides, one in the warm zone and one in the cool zone, so it does not have to choose between safety and the right temperature. Species that need humidity for shedding get a third, humid hide.

Artificial plants are easy to clean and do not wilt, so they suit many species. They should be sturdy, without small parts that could come off and be swallowed, and kept out of reach of herbivores that try to eat them.

Live plants must be non-toxic and match the terrarium's conditions: spineless succulents suit desert setups, moisture-loving plants suit tropical ones. Before planting, it is worth rinsing and repotting new plants into clean substrate to remove fertiliser and pesticides.

Yes, but they need to be cleaned and disinfected well, for example washed and dried or baked in the oven, so no parasites or insects remain. Stones must sit firmly on the terrarium floor so they cannot collapse on a digging animal.

Humidity that is too low can cause shedding problems and dehydration, while too much can cause respiratory and skin disease. A hygrometer shows the real humidity, which cannot be judged by eye, especially in different parts of the terrarium.

Humidity rises with misting, moisture-holding substrate, a bigger water dish, live plants and partly covered vents. Automatic fogging or misting systems are used for tropical species.

Filtered, distilled or reverse-osmosis water is often recommended for misting, because hard tap water leaves limescale on the glass and clogs misting nozzles. Drinking water is usually fine as standing tap water.

A fogger briefly raises humidity and suits tropical species, but used too often it can create constant dampness and mould. It is best run on a timer or humidity controller with clean water only.

Digital thermometers with one or two probes are more accurate than stick-on strip thermometers, which only show the glass temperature. An infrared thermometer is handy for measuring the surface temperature of the basking spot.

It is best to measure at least two spots, the warm and the cool zone, because one spot does not show the gradient. Many keepers use a dual-probe thermometer and also check the basking spot with an infrared thermometer.

On/off thermostats suit heat mats and ceramic heat emitters, while power-regulating (dimming) ones suit basking lamps so they do not flicker on and off. Some thermostats have separate day and night settings.

Leopard geckos eat only insects, bearded dragons eat insects and greens, snakes eat whole rodents or other prey, land tortoises eat mostly weeds and leaves, and aquatic turtles eat dedicated pellets, insects, small fish and plants. So food has to be bought for the species.

For most insect- and plant-eating reptiles, insects and greens are dusted with calcium powder because their diet often lacks calcium. Snakes that eat whole prey usually do not need supplements. Agree the frequency with the label and your vet's advice.

Calcium with D3 helps reptiles that get little UVB, while calcium without D3 suits those that get enough UVB and make their own vitamin D3. Since too much D3 is also harmful, many keepers alternate the two following their vet's recommendations.

Most reptiles need a clean water dish in the terrarium at all times, and for some it also helps with humidity or soaking. Chameleons and some geckos drink droplets from leaves, so misting or a drip system matters more for them.

For reptiles, heavy ceramic or resin bowls that cannot be tipped over are often chosen, with low edges so the animal can climb in easily. For insects there are dishes with smooth walls that worms cannot crawl out of.

Long tongs let you offer an insect or thawed prey safely and protect your fingers from accidental bites. For snakes they also help avoid linking your hand with food, so feeding bites happen less often.

Fogged glass shows there is a lot of humidity in the terrarium and too little airflow, or that the room is much cooler than the terrarium. It is normal briefly after misting, but if the glass is constantly fogged, improve ventilation and mist less often.

Yes, regular cleaning uses disinfectants made for reptile terrariums or otherwise safe for animals. After cleaning, rinse and dry the surfaces as the label says so no residue or smell remains.

Strong household cleaners containing ammonia, phenols or heavy fragrances, as well as air fresheners, are harmful to reptiles. Their fumes can irritate the airways, so animal-safe products are used and the terrarium is aired well.