FAQ: Supplies for reptiles

A live rodent can injure a snake with bites or scratches, especially if the snake is not immediately interested. Frozen and thawed rodents are safer, easier to store and reduce the risk of parasites.

Snakes often skip meals before shedding, after a move, when temperatures are too low, seasonally or during the breeding season. If a snake refuses food for a long time and loses weight, check its conditions and see a vet.

Yes, snakes are true escape artists and can push up an unsecured lid or slip through a small gap. A terrarium with sliding doors should have a dedicated lock, and vent and cable openings must be sealed.

A snake feels safest in a snug hide where it can coil up and touch the walls, so an oversized hide suits it less well. Place a matching hide in both the warm and cool zones so the snake can choose its temperature.

An incomplete shed often points to low humidity. A humid hide, more frequent misting or a short soak in lukewarm water helps. Do not peel retained eye caps yourself; if they stay, see a vet.

Many snakes like to soak occasionally, especially before shedding, so the bowl should be big enough for the snake to fit in. It must be heavy so it does not tip over and be washed regularly.

Corn snakes and other dry-habitat snakes are often kept on beech or aspen chips, while those that need more humidity do well on coco fibre or bark. The substrate should let the snake burrow and hold the humidity the species needs.

Tortoises like to dig, so mixes of soil, coco fibre and sand or other diggable substrates that hold a little moisture suit them. Fine shavings or litter can be swallowed with food, so food is placed on a flat stone or plate.

A soft shell or uneven pyramiding is often linked to a lack of calcium or UVB, an unsuitable diet or conditions too dry during growth. It is a serious problem, so see a vet if you notice changes and review the setup.

A cuttlebone is often left in the enclosure as an extra calcium source the tortoise can nibble when it wants, and it also helps wear down the beak. It does not replace calcium powder or UVB, but it is a simple extra.

Feeding in a separate container of water keeps leftovers out of the aquaterrarium, so the filter copes better and the water stays clean longer. After feeding, the turtle goes back and the container is rinsed.

Even with a good filter, part of the water is usually changed weekly, and the filter is cleaned following the manufacturer's instructions. Without this, ammonia and bacteria build up and can cause eye and skin problems.

For most tropical and subtropical aquatic turtles, room-temperature water is too cold, so an aquarium heater with a protective guard is used. The guard stops the turtle from breaking a glass heater.

Aquatic turtles often swallow small pebbles along with food, which can cause a gut blockage. So a bare bottom, large stones too big to swallow or fine sand are used instead.

Blue-tongued skinks need a roomy, low terrarium as they live on the ground, deep substrate to burrow in, a basking lamp, UVB, hides and a heavy water dish. They are omnivores, so their diet combines insects, vegetables and protein foods.

Uromastyx are desert lizards that need a very hot basking spot, strong UVB, dry substrate and lots of rocks. Adults eat mostly plant food and seeds, so their shopping list differs from that of insect-eating lizards.

A Chinese water dragon grows fairly large and climbs, so it needs a tall, roomy terrarium with branches, a large water pool, high humidity, a basking lamp and UVB. It is more demanding than a bearded dragon.

Day geckos are active by day and bask in the light, so a UVB lamp is usually recommended, along with a tall, planted terrarium and misting. They eat insects and a dedicated fruit-based diet.

King and milk snakes need much the same as a corn snake: a secure terrarium, heating with a thermostat, several hides and frozen rodents. They may eat other snakes, so they are kept singly.

Hognose snakes love to burrow, so they need deeper substrate, and the terrarium can be smaller than for bigger species. Some are fussy eaters, so keepers sometimes change the prey type or scent after advice from experienced breeders.