FAQ: Supplies for reptiles

Large glass terrariums are sometimes easier to collect yourself, as they are heavy and can crack in transit. If you order delivery, check the parcel straight away and record any damage.

Calcium and vitamin powders are kept tightly closed in a cool, dry place and used before the expiry date, as vitamins weaken over time. Substrate is stored dry in a closed bag so mould or insects cannot get in.

Older reptiles are often less active, eat less often and may struggle to climb, so lower basking spots, easy-to-reach water and closer weight checks help. Regular vet check-ups help catch illness early.

Adult and older reptiles are usually fed less often than juveniles, because their growth has slowed and they gain weight more easily. A sudden loss of appetite, however, is not a normal sign of ageing and should be discussed with a vet.

It is handy to have a dedicated scoop for droppings, brushes, a glass cleaner, a spray bottle with disinfectant and disposable gloves. These tools are used only for the terrarium, not in the kitchen.

Limescale spots from misting can often be wiped off with a mild vinegar and water solution or a terrarium glass cleaner, then rinsed with clean water. Misting with distilled or filtered water helps prevent spots in the future.

Tap water often contains chlorine, so before adding it to the aquaterrarium it can be left to stand or treated with an aquarium water conditioner. This also helps the beneficial bacteria in the filter.

On a warm day, a short spell in the sun outdoors in a secure tub or pen with water and shade is good for a turtle, as it gets natural UVB. Never leave the turtle unattended or in a container without shade, as it can overheat quickly.

Swollen eyes in aquatic turtles are often linked to dirty water, a lack of vitamin A or poor conditions. It needs a vet's examination, and the setup – water quality, temperature, UVB and diet – should be reviewed.

Dried herbs, flowers and hay add fibre to a tortoise's diet, especially in winter when fresh weeds are hard to find. They can be mixed with fresh greens or scattered in the enclosure so the tortoise forages.

Especially for young tortoises, a more humid hide or a damper corner of substrate helps the shell grow evenly and prevents dehydration. The rest of the enclosure is usually kept drier.

Many keepers regularly soak tortoises in shallow lukewarm water, especially hatchlings, as it helps them drink and pass droppings. The water should come no higher than the chin, and the tortoise is supervised throughout.

A heat mat suits ground-dwelling reptiles that warm through their belly, such as leopard geckos and some snakes. Day-active basking lizards and tortoises need overhead heat, as a mat alone is not enough for them.

A heat mat is usually stuck under the terrarium floor or on the outside of the back wall and covers about a third of the area. To avoid overheating it runs through a thermostat, and an air gap is left under the terrarium.

The wattage depends on the terrarium's size and material, the room temperature and the species' needs. It is often easier to choose a slightly more powerful heater and control it with a thermostat than one too weak to reach the needed temperature in winter.

Excess humidity is often caused by poor ventilation, misting too often, overly wet substrate or a large water dish in the warm zone. More vents, less frequent misting and moving the water dish to the cool side help.

The substrate depth depends on the species: burrowing reptiles and bioactive setups need a deep layer, while others are fine with a few centimetres. You can work out the volume in litres by multiplying the floor area by the depth you want.

You can watch a reptile's night-time behaviour with very dim light or a dedicated night-viewing lamp, but it should not stay on all night. Most reptiles do best in full darkness.

When moving house, the reptile travels separately in a secure, warm box, and the terrarium is emptied so the glass does not crack. At the new place, the terrarium is set up and warmed first, and only then is the animal moved in.

Gloves are usually not needed; washing your hands before and after contact matters more. Gloves are useful when cleaning the terrarium, handling nervous or bitey animals and dealing with frozen prey.