FAQ: Cages for birds

Yes, if the door closes badly or leaves a gap against the frame, the bird can get a foot or toe stuck. Check that the closed door sits flush against the frame with no gaps.

Many owners cover the cage at night so the bird sleeps more peacefully, undisturbed by light. It is not necessary if the room is dark and quiet at night, but a cover helps some birds settle.

A breathable, opaque fabric with no loops or loose threads for the bird to get tangled in works well. The cover should not cut off the air completely, so leave a gap at the bottom.

Most pet birds need about 10–12 hours of darkness and quiet a day. A covered cage or a dark room helps keep a steady sleep routine, especially in summer when the days are long.

Some birds, cockatiels especially, are startled at night by a sudden sound or light and start thrashing around the cage. A dim night light and a partly covered cage can help, and after such a fright check that the bird is not injured.

In summer a thick cover can trap heat and block air circulation. On hot nights use a thinner fabric or cover only part of the cage, and make sure the room itself is not too warm.

Covering the cage briefly is fine if the bird is very worked up, but covering it regularly during the day to keep the bird quiet is not. Frequent screaming often signals boredom or lack of attention, so look for the cause.

Many species, such as budgies, finches or lovebirds, are social and prefer living in pairs. The cage then needs to be roomier, with several feeders and perches, and new birds should be introduced gradually.

First keep the new bird in quarantine in a separate cage in another room, then place the cages side by side so the birds can see and hear each other. Only move them into a shared cage once they behave calmly.

The usual advice is to keep a new bird in a separate cage in another room for several weeks so any illness can show itself. The exact period, and whether tests are needed, is worth discussing with an avian vet.

A breeding cage is usually long, with places to attach a nest and often a removable divider so the birds can be separated for a time. It is meant for a pair and their chicks, so it must be roomy enough and easy to clean.

It is usually not advisable, as budgies can be aggressive towards canaries and their needs differ. If they are kept together at all, it is only in a large aviary under constant observation.

Birds may fight over space, feeders, perches or a mate, especially in a cramped cage. More space and extra feeders and perches at different ends help, and if the fighting continues, the birds must be separated.

Yes, if the cage is big enough and the birds get on, but in some species an odd number leads to conflict once pairs form. A larger group is often better suited to an aviary.

Yes, a sick bird is best moved to a separate, quiet, warm cage with food and water within easy reach, so it can rest and does not infect others. Be sure to see a vet and follow their instructions.

Yes, nests, boxes, dark nooks and long days can prompt some hens to lay eggs even without a male. If a hen lays often, remove such spots from the cage and talk to a vet.

Young birds do well in a cage with low perches and food and water within easy reach, so they can learn to climb and eat. The bar spacing must be right for birds that are not yet fully grown.

Rust means the coating is damaged, and chewed rusty metal can irritate a bird's digestion and have sharp edges. If the bird chews rusty bars, it is worth replacing the cage.

Always dry the cage well after washing, do not keep it somewhere very damp and remove droppings promptly, as they eat into the coating. Keep an eye on any damaged coating, and replace the cage if rust spreads.

A used cage can be fine if it is sturdy and free of rust, peeling paint and sharp edges. It must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before use, as disease agents and mites from previous birds may remain.