FAQ: Cages for birds

Some birds settle within hours, others need days or weeks. What matters most is that the bird eats and drinks, and if it refuses food for longer or sits fluffed up, see a vet.

At least at first, put dishes, drinkers and favourite perches in similar spots to the old cage so the bird finds its way more easily. The layout can be changed gradually later.

In new surroundings a bird often picks the safest, highest perch or the one nearest the wall and moves little. It usually starts exploring within a few days, but make sure it can reach food and water.

It is not advisable — a new bird does not yet know its surroundings or the people, so it may panic, get hurt or fail to learn to return to the cage. Let it get used to the cage and to you first, then start short flights in a safe room.

Start by holding your hand near the cage, then calmly put it inside and keep it still, perhaps holding a treat. Repeat briefly every day until the bird stops being afraid, and never grab it by force.

Most pet birds do well at normal room temperature without big swings or draughts. Sudden temperature changes and overheating are more dangerous for birds than slight coolness.

On a warm day the bird can go out on the balcony for a while if the cage is protected from direct sun, wind, rain and predators, and the bird is supervised. The cage must be securely closed, as a bird that escapes outdoors rarely comes back.

Keep the cage in the shade, away from sunny windows, provide fresh water and offer a bath. Signs of overheating are open-beak breathing and wings held away from the body; if you see them, move the bird somewhere cooler and contact a vet.

In a heated room a bird is usually warm enough, but the cage should not stand by a window that gets opened or against a cold outside wall. If the bird often sits fluffed up, it may be cold or unwell.

For most exotic birds an unheated veranda is unsuitable in the cold season because of the cold and big temperature swings. Some hardier species tolerate coolness, but only when gradually acclimatised and protected from wind and damp.

Yes, draughts are unpleasant for birds and can contribute to health problems. Place the cage away from doors, windows and vents, and cover or move it while airing the room.

Yes, an outdoor cage or aviary needs a roof or covered section so the bird can shelter from rain and not get chilled. Wet litter and food also spoil quickly.

The natural length of the day does most birds no harm, though very short, dark days can make some less active. If you use extra lighting, keep a steady routine and do not lengthen the day too much.

The most common are bars spaced so widely the head gets stuck, sharp or peeling parts, worn toy chains, loose threads that tangle feet, and hazardous materials. Inspect the cage and accessories regularly.

Birds enjoy rope toys and perches, but as they wear they fray, and a bird's foot or neck can get tangled in the threads. Trim long loose strands and replace worn toys.

A mirror catches the attention of some birds, especially budgies living alone, but some become too attached to it or start treating it as a mate. If you notice that, remove the mirror and give the bird more attention.

Chewing the bars can be a sign of boredom, wanting out, seeking attention or simply using the beak. Offer more chew toys and time out of the cage, and if the bars are painted, watch that the bird is not chewing off the coating.

Yes, long claws or a leg ring can snag on mesh, ropes or gaps. Keep the claws trimmed, and if the ring catches or digs into the leg, see a vet.

Some clips and spring carabiners can trap a bird's beak, tongue or foot. Choose bird-safe screw-lock fasteners and make sure the bird cannot open them.

Yes, a bird can reach cables through the bars or chew through them when out of the cage and get an electric shock. Keep cables out of the bird's reach or hide them in protective trunking.