FAQ: Cages for birds

A clean bird cage usually hardly smells at all, so an odour often means the floor is changed too rarely or rotting food has been left. Change the litter and clean the tray more often, and do not use air fresheners or sprays near the bird.

Birds scatter husks, food and feathers, and some species, such as lories, have liquid droppings. Seed guards, well-placed food dishes and changing the floor daily help keep things clean.

Food dishes, drinkers and some plastic or metal accessories can go in the dishwasher if the manufacturer allows it. The cage itself and wooden accessories should not.

The simplest and easiest to change is plain paper or paper sheets made for birds. Bird sand and corn cob or paper pellet litter are also used, but they must be kept dry and changed often.

Newspaper is often used to line cages, as it is easy to come by and droppings show clearly on it. Ordinary newspaper ink is generally considered safe, but glossy coloured paper is best avoided, especially if the bird tears and chews it.

Bird sand absorbs moisture and looks neat, but birds may eat it, and changes in droppings are harder to spot on it. If you use sand, change it often and watch that the bird is not eating large amounts.

The colour, amount and consistency of droppings are among the first signs of a bird's health. Changes are easiest to spot on plain paper, and if they persist, see a vet.

A floor grate keeps the bird away from droppings and dropped food, so the cage stays cleaner. Some owners remove it so the bird can walk on the floor and forage, but then the floor needs changing more often.

Paper is best changed daily, and loose litter at least a few times a week, or more often if it gets damp. Mould and bacteria multiply quickly in damp litter.

It is a plastic or fabric skirt around the bottom of the cage that catches husks, feathers and food so they do not scatter on the floor. It needs regular cleaning, as dirt collects behind it.

A pull-out tray lets you change the floor paper or litter without opening the cage or frightening the bird. Choose a cage whose tray slides out easily and does not jam.

Wood shavings are used less for birds than for rodents, and aromatic softwood shavings such as cedar or pine are best avoided because of the substances they release. Paper or litters made for birds are usually more practical.

Fabric or a mat on the cage floor is not recommended, as it soaks up moisture, is hard to clean and the bird's claws can get caught in the threads. Paper or an easily changed litter is better.

Parrots quickly learn to open simple doors with their beaks, so cage doors must lock firmly. For cleverer parrots some owners add a clip or a bird-safe carabiner.

It is handy if the cage has a large main door that fits your hand with the bird on it, plus smaller doors for changing dishes. Some doors fold down and become a landing platform.

Doors that slide upwards can drop suddenly and trap a bird's head or neck, especially if the bird learns to lift them itself. Such doors are worth securing with a clip.

Secure the doors with a bird-safe clip, carabiner or special lock that the bird cannot undo. Check every door, including the small feeding doors, as parrots often find the weakest point.

The door should be big enough for your hand with the bird on it, or a larger dish, to pass through easily without the bird hurting its wings. Large parrots need especially wide doors.

Before opening the cage, close the room's windows and doors, switch off fans and make sure the bird cannot slip out. It is worth changing dishes through the small doors so the main door does not need opening.

As soon as possible, put the cage with favourite food somewhere visible outdoors or on the balcony, call the bird in a voice it knows and tell neighbours and local noticeboard groups. Many birds are active and easier to recover at dawn or in the evening.