FAQ: Cages for birds

Many birds, especially canaries and finches, love bathing, so a bath inside the cage or on the door helps them keep their feathers in good condition. Change the water daily, as birds drink from it too.

Enough to keep the bird busy while still leaving it free to move and fly. Many owners keep a few toys in and swap them regularly so the bird does not get bored.

Most birds do not need a permanent house or nest in the cage, and for some species, such as parrots, it can trigger hens to lay eggs. A nest is usually only added for breeding, though some owners leave a sleeping nest for finches.

A perch fitted too close to the floor, with the tail touching the tray, gets soiled with droppings, as do the bird's feathers. Fit the lowest perch so the bird's tail hangs freely above the floor.

Perches of different thicknesses work the feet in different ways: natural wood branches, wooden, rope or mineral perches. Plastic perches all of one thickness can lead to foot problems over time.

A bird needs a clear path to fly or hop between perches. A cage crammed with toys and accessories may look interesting, but the bird cannot move in it and can hurt itself bumping into things.

Natural light in the room and a clear day–night routine are usually enough. If the cage stands somewhere darker, some owners use bird lamps, but these must be fitted so the bird cannot reach them or overheat.

Open water dishes or tube drinkers attached to the bars are the usual options. Water in tube drinkers stays cleaner, but make sure the bird knows how to drink from one and check daily that it has not clogged.

Toys can be swapped every week or two and perches moved now and then to give the bird new challenges. Better not to move food and water dishes often, so the bird always knows where to find food and water.

Wash food and water dishes and change the floor paper or litter every day, and give the whole cage, bars and perches included, a thorough clean at least once a week. The more birds in the cage, the more often it needs cleaning.

Hot water and a mild, unscented detergent, or a cage cleaner made for birds, is usually enough. After cleaning, rinse the cage well with clean water and dry it before putting the bird back.

Fumes from strong bleach cleaners are dangerous to birds, so they are best avoided; if you do use them, dilute them, keep the bird in another room and rinse and air thoroughly. Disinfectants made for birds, used as the label says, are the safer choice.

Diluted vinegar is often used to remove limescale and dried droppings from bars and trays. Afterwards rinse the cage with water so no smell remains, and dry it.

Dried droppings come off more easily once softened with warm water or a damp cloth. Then scrub with a brush or plastic scraper, without scratching the coating with sharp tools.

Plastic and smooth wooden perches can be washed with hot water and a brush, while natural branches can be sanded or replaced with new ones. Let perches dry completely before putting them back in the cage.

Yes, a large cage is easy to rinse in the shower or with a garden hose once the bird and all accessories are out. Dry the cage well afterwards so the metal joints do not start to rust.

During cleaning the bird can go into a travel carrier or spare cage in another room, away from cleaning fumes. A tame bird can also spend the time on a play stand under supervision.

A thorough weekly wash is usually enough, with disinfection every few weeks, after illness or before a new bird moves in. When disinfecting, follow the product label and rinse well.

After a bird has been ill, wash and disinfect the cage and all accessories thoroughly, and wooden perches, ropes and toys are often safer thrown away. Ask a vet which product to use, especially if the illness is contagious.

Changing the floor paper daily, fitting seed guards and vacuuming around the cage regularly all help. Some owners use an air purifier, especially with dusty-feathered parrots such as cockatoos or cockatiels.