FAQ: Supplies for small pets

It is usually not recommended: vitamins break down quickly in water, and the changed taste can put the animal off drinking. Guinea pigs are better off getting vitamin C from food, and supplements should be used only on a vet's advice.

Heat or drier food can increase thirst, but drinking more over a longer period can be a sign of diabetes or kidney disease. If it continues for several days, see a vet.

Rodents' front teeth, and all the teeth of rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas and degus, grow throughout life. Chewing hay and harder food wears them down naturally, so the right diet is the best dental care.

Drooling, a wet chin, reduced appetite, dropping food from the mouth, weight loss or overgrown front teeth. If you notice these signs, see a vet and do not trim the teeth yourself.

Apple, pear, willow, hazel and birch twigs are suitable if collected from unsprayed areas, washed and dried. Avoid stone fruit trees such as cherry or plum, conifers and ornamental shrubs.

Hay and wood wear the teeth down better, while mineral stones can supply excess minerals, and some contain sugar. They are not essential; if in doubt, ask a vet.

Usually out of boredom, because the cage is too small, or because it wants to get out and get attention. It can damage the teeth, so provide a bigger cage, more activities and chew items.

Plain cardboard is fine to chew in moderation, as long as it has no print, sticky tape or glue. If the animal eats large amounts of it rather than just chewing, give it more hay or wooden chew items instead.

Natural ones are safest: untreated wood, willow, hay, loofah and cardboard. Avoid painted or varnished toys, soft plastic and small metal parts that could be swallowed.

Replace a toy once it is chewed down to small pieces, soaked with urine or mouldy. It is worth rotating new and old toys so the animal does not get bored of them.

The most important dental care is unlimited hay every day. Owners cannot see the back teeth, so a vet should check them regularly, especially if the rabbit eats less or drools.

Rats and hamsters can occasionally have unsalted nuts in their shells, but they are very fatty, so only as a treat. Nuts are not suitable for chinchillas, degus, rabbits or guinea pigs.

Several kinds: chew toys, tunnels and hides, foraging toys such as hay balls or snuffle mats, and ladders and shelves for animals that climb. Choose according to your pet's species and habits.

Scatter some food in the bedding, or hide it in hay, paper bags or cardboard tubes. Searching for food lets the animal behave naturally, so it gets less bored and moves more.

Hamsters, mice, gerbils and degus use a wheel, chinchillas need a large special one, and rats use one less often. A wheel is unsuitable for rabbits and guinea pigs, as it can injure their spine.

A wheel at least 28–30 cm in diameter is often recommended for a Syrian hamster, and about 20–25 cm for a dwarf hamster. When running, the hamster should not arch its back upwards; if it does, the wheel is too small.

On a wheel with rungs or mesh a foot can get caught, causing injuries and even fractures. The safest wheel has a solid running surface and no cross-bar support for the animal to hit.

Yes, rabbits are clever and get bored quickly. They enjoy tunnels, digging boxes, chew toys, balls to toss and toys with a hidden treat – this reduces the urge to chew furniture.

Yes, rats learn to respond to their name, come when called and do simple tricks if they get a small treat for it. Training sessions should be short, a few minutes long, and repeated daily.

Every week or two, swap some of the toys for others or rearrange them so the surroundings stay interesting. Avoid big rearrangements for hamsters, which value familiar surroundings.