FAQ: Carriers & Crates for small pets

Watery vegetables from its usual diet, such as cucumber, lettuce leaves or bell pepper, work well. Give small amounts and only ones it is used to, so as not to upset its digestion.

Better not. Travel is already stressful, and new food can cause digestive upsets, especially in rabbits and guinea pigs. Bring enough of the usual food and hay for the whole trip and a few extra days.

A slightly reduced appetite after a trip can happen, but going without food for long is dangerous for a rabbit. If it has not eaten or passed droppings for more than about half a day, or seems lethargic, contact a vet as soon as possible.

Bring the food in its original packaging or an airtight container so it stays dry and keeps its smell. Take a bit more than you need, since you may not find the same food at your destination.

On a short trip that is common, but rabbits and guinea pigs should produce droppings soon after the journey. If there are none for more than about half a day, or they become much smaller, contact a vet.

Fix the bottle on the outside with the spout poking in at the animal’s head height, so it cannot reach or chew the bottle itself. Before setting off, check that it does not drip and that the holder is firmly in place.

A bonded pair is often best carried together, as they feel calmer and you avoid problems reuniting them later. The carrier must be big enough for both to lie down without lying on each other.

It is not advisable to put them in the same carrier, as a rabbit is stronger and may kick or injure a guinea pig when frightened. They also communicate differently, so each is better in its own carrier.

Syrian hamsters live alone and can fight badly in a cramped carrier, so each must travel separately. Dwarf hamsters that live together can sometimes travel together, but if there is any squabbling it is safer to separate them.

Yes, rats that live together usually feel calmer travelling as a group. The carrier must be big enough for all of them, and in warm weather they need more room so they do not overheat huddled together.

Carry unfamiliar animals in separate carriers, even if you plan to keep them together. A first meeting in a cramped carrier often ends in a fight, so introduce them only at home, on neutral ground and under supervision.

It is better not to unless necessary, as stress can harm both the mother and the young. If the trip cannot be avoided, for example to the vet, ask the vet how to move them most safely.

Young rodents and baby rabbits lose heat quickly, so carry them in a small, warm carrier with plenty of hay or bedding. Ask the breeder for some of the usual food and bedding so you do not have to change their diet during the first days.

Going through a stressful journey together usually brings bonded rabbits even closer. If one rabbit travels alone, it may come back smelling of the clinic, and sometimes the pair need to be reintroduced.

Signs of stress include freezing, fast breathing, wide eyes, trying to escape, chewing the bars, squeaking or thumping. Some animals instead become completely still, so watch both breathing and posture.

Get the animal used to the carrier in advance, put familiar bedding and hay inside, cover part of the carrier and carry it calmly. Drive smoothly, keep it quiet and at a suitable temperature, and make the journey as short as possible.

Sedatives must not be given without a vet’s prescription, as they can be dangerous for rodents and rabbits. If the animal is very anxious when travelling, talk to a vet about the options and how best to prepare.

A rabbit is a prey animal, so when frightened it often freezes in the hope of going unnoticed. That does not mean it is fine, so cover the carrier, keep things calm and watch that it is breathing normally.

Loud squealing on a journey usually means fear or discomfort, for example when the carrier swings or it is too bright. More hay to hide in, a covered carrier and a companion beside it often help it settle.

Yes, stress can slow a rabbit’s gut, so after a trip it is important to watch that it eats hay and passes droppings. To lower the risk, give plenty of hay and the usual food during and after the journey.