FAQ: Health for reptiles

Yes, reptiles often hide signs of illness, so problems only become obvious once the disease is advanced. That is why a new animal is worth taking to a vet who treats reptiles, even if it looks healthy.

A faecal test is often done after getting a new reptile and then regularly, because many parasites cannot be seen with the naked eye. The sample must be fresh; ask your vet how to collect it and store it until the visit.

Snake mites are tiny black or red dots moving under the scales, around the eyes and chin, and are often seen in the water bowl too. The snake may soak for long periods and act restless; if you see mites, see a vet, because both the animal and the enclosure need treatment.

No, products made for dogs and cats can be poisonous to reptiles. Parasite treatment for a reptile must be chosen by a vet, and in the enclosure use only products whose label says they are suitable for reptiles.

These sprays are meant for treating the enclosure or the animal against external parasites, but how they work and how safe they are varies a lot. Use them only according to the label, keep them away from the eyes and water, and consult a vet before starting treatment.

Usually all the substrate and porous decor are thrown away, and the enclosure and remaining items are cleaned thoroughly and treated with a suitable product according to the label. Mites hide in crevices and breed quickly, so cleaning usually has to be repeated alongside the animal's vet-prescribed treatment.

Suspect them when a reptile loses weight despite a good appetite, its droppings are runny, slimy, bloody or unusually foul-smelling, or it becomes lethargic. Only a vet can find the exact cause by testing the droppings.

It is not usual to give reptiles parasite medication ‘just in case’, because the wrong medicine or dose can cause harm. A faecal test is done more often, and a vet prescribes treatment if it is needed.

They can, especially if caught in the wild or kept in dirty conditions. It is safer to use bred feeder insects, keep them clean and not feed wild insects, which may also have been exposed to pesticides.

Wild mice or other animals can carry parasites, diseases or poison residues, so snakes are more often fed bred, frozen and thawed prey. Freezing also reduces the risk of some parasites and protects the snake from bites by live prey.

Tortoises kept in outdoor pens sometimes pick up ticks, usually in the skin folds near the legs and neck. They must be removed carefully so the head is not left behind; if you are unsure or the spot turns red, see a vet.

Yes, mites can move between neighbouring enclosures, and internal parasites spread through tools, hands and shared dishes. Quarantine, separate tools, hand washing and regular faecal tests all help.

It is a condition in which bones weaken because of a lack of calcium, vitamin D3 or UVB, or the wrong calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. It is one of the most common problems in captive lizards and turtles, but it can usually be prevented with the right diet, supplements and lighting.

Common signs are swollen or soft legs or jaw, bent legs or spine, tremors, weakness and difficulty climbing or lifting the body. If you notice such signs, see a vet without delay, because increasing supplements on your own may not help or may even cause harm.

The key things are a species-appropriate UVB lamp replaced as the manufacturer advises, proper heating, a varied diet, and calcium and vitamin supplements following a vet's plan. Quite a few cases arise simply because a UVB lamp no longer emits enough UVB even though it still lights up.

UVB output fades over time even though the visible light stays, so an old lamp may no longer provide enough UVB for vitamin D3 production. The manufacturer states when to replace it, and some keepers check UVB strength with a special meter.

For some species D3 supplements help partly, but for most day-active lizards and turtles UVB lighting is still considered essential, as it also matters for behaviour and overall health. Discuss how to combine supplements and UVB for your species with a vet.

No, ordinary window glass and most plastics block UVB, so sunlight through a window gives a reptile none. A UVB lamp must shine directly or through a metal mesh, which also blocks part of the rays.

A very young hatchling's shell is still slightly flexible, but a soft or deformed shell in a growing or adult turtle usually points to a lack of calcium, vitamin D3 or UVB. It is a serious condition, so the turtle should be examined by a vet and its husbandry and diet reviewed.

Pyramiding is when the shell scutes grow in raised bumps instead of smoothly. It is linked to growing too fast, too much protein, low humidity and a lack of calcium and UVB, so a species-appropriate diet and husbandry are key to preventing it.