FAQ: Health for reptiles

Reptiles do not always sense an overheated surface in time, so they can be burned by unguarded lamps, heat rocks or mats that are too hot. Fit lamp guards, run heating through a thermostat and check surface temperatures.

Remove or guard the heat source, keep the burned area clean and see a vet, because burns in reptiles can quickly become infected. Do not try to treat the burn yourself.

A thermostat keeps the heating at a steady temperature and stops the device from overheating, protecting against burns and overheating. Without it the temperature follows the room temperature, which weakens immunity and digestion.

An overheated reptile may avoid the warm side, lie stretched out in the coolest spot, breathe with its mouth open or be unusually lethargic. Lower the temperature straight away, make sure water is available and, if it does not improve, see a vet.

Keep a small scrape clean, move the animal temporarily onto paper substrate so no dust gets into the wound, and watch whether it heals. If the area swells, oozes, darkens or does not heal, see a vet; do not use ointments made for people without their advice.

Seek help urgently if a reptile is struggling to breathe, bleeding, has tissue protruding from the vent, is having seizures, cannot lift its body, has been burned or was injured in a fall. Reptiles hide illness for a long time, so obvious signs often mean the condition is already serious.

Not every veterinary clinic treats exotic animals, so before getting a reptile ask which nearby clinic has experience with reptiles. It is worth knowing in advance so you do not have to search when urgent help is needed.

Yes, many reptile vets recommend a visit after getting the animal and then regularly, even if it looks healthy. The check covers weight, body condition and husbandry, with a faecal test if needed.

Note the species, age, what and how often the animal eats, which supplements are used, the enclosure temperature and humidity and the age of the UVB lamp. Photos of the enclosure, a fresh faecal sample and weight records are also useful.

Yes, a vet who treats reptiles can help plan calcium, vitamins and UVB according to the species, age and diet. This is safer than relying on general advice, because the needs of different species vary greatly.

In the wild a weak animal is more easily taken by predators, so reptiles instinctively hide weakness. That is why it is important for the owner to know their animal's normal behaviour, appetite and weight, so changes are noticed early.

Be suspicious when a reptile goes without food for longer than usual, hides all the time or, on the contrary, stops hiding, becomes lethargic, stops basking or holds its body unusually. A single change does not always mean illness, but several together are a reason to consult a vet.

Swollen joints can point to infection, gout, injury or bone problems, so they need to be shown to a vet. The cause cannot be determined at home, and treatment depends on it.

No, painkillers and other medicines made for people can be poisonous to reptiles, and they act differently in a reptile's body. If you think the animal is in pain, see a vet.

It is useful to have clean paper towels, sterile dressings, an animal-safe antiseptic recommended by your vet, gloves, scales, a thermometer and a transport box. The kit is for first aid until you reach the vet, not for treatment at home.

Before brumation or hibernation the animal must be fully healthy and have enough reserves, because a sick reptile or one with parasites may not survive it. That is why many vets recommend a check-up and faecal test beforehand.

Yes, when needed vets who treat reptiles carry out blood and faecal tests, X-rays or other tests to assess things such as kidney function or bone condition. The vet decides which tests are needed based on the symptoms.

Weight is one of the most reliable health indicators, because reptiles show signs of illness late. Regular weighing on kitchen scales and keeping records help you notice weight loss or obesity in time.

For small reptiles digital kitchen scales that weigh in grams work well, and it is easiest to place the animal in a tub or box whose weight you subtract. Large snakes or tortoises need scales with a higher capacity.

Many snakes fast at times – before shedding, in the breeding season or in winter – and this is often normal as long as the weight holds. Check the temperature, hides and sources of stress, and if the snake is clearly losing weight or shows other signs, see a vet.