FAQ: Health for reptiles

Skin left on the toes and tail tip often points to low humidity or a missing humid hide. Constricting skin can cut off circulation and a toe can be lost, so if it cannot be removed gently after moistening, see a vet.

These products, usually sprays or bath additives, moisturise and soften old skin so it comes away more easily. They only complement the right humidity in the enclosure rather than replacing it; use them according to the label.

Only very gently, and only when the skin has already lifted and been moistened, for example after a soak or with a damp cloth. Never tear off skin that is still attached and do not touch the eye area – leave that to a vet.

Yes, many reptiles eat less before and during shedding and become quieter or hide. If the appetite does not return a few days after the shed or the animal is losing weight, it is worth consulting a vet.

A snake's eye is covered by a clear scale that is shed together with the skin. If it does not come off, the eye looks cloudy or wrinkled; do not try to pick it off yourself, as you can injure the eye – improve the humidity and see a vet.

Repeated poor sheds most often point to low humidity, dehydration or the wrong temperature, but they can also be a sign of parasites, diet problems or illness. If correcting the husbandry does not help, the animal should be examined by a vet.

Yes, snakes and lizards start a shed by rubbing against branches, rocks or bark, so the enclosure should have at least one rougher, sturdy surface. Choose ones without sharp edges so the animal does not get hurt.

Use shallow, lukewarm water so the animal can easily keep its head above the surface, and supervise it the whole time. The water must not be hot, and after the soak the reptile should go straight back into its warm enclosure.

Check the shed: if it is in one piece and both eye caps are present, the shed went well. It can then be thrown away; some keepers track growth by the length of the shed, but it is a little longer than the snake itself.

Water turtles periodically shed thin layers of their shell scutes and peel skin, and this is normal. However, soft, foul-smelling areas or peeling down to living tissue are a sign to see a vet.

Common signs are sunken eyes, wrinkled or inelastic skin, lethargy, difficult shedding, and dry or infrequent droppings and urates. Mild fluid loss is often resolved by correcting the husbandry, but clear signs need a vet.

Chameleons and some other lizards only drink droplets from leaves, so drippers, misting or automatic misting systems are used for them. Watch whether the animal actually drinks, and consult a vet if you suspect dehydration.

The bowl should be stable, easy to clean and of a depth the animal can easily climb in and out of – shallow for small lizards and juveniles. Large snakes are often given one big enough to soak their whole body in. Change the water daily or as soon as it is soiled.

Electrolyte solutions are sometimes used for reptiles after dehydration or illness, but they are not an everyday supplement. Use them only on a vet's advice and according to the label; day to day, clean water and the right humidity are enough.

In most cases clean tap water is fine for reptiles to drink, especially if it has been left to stand or filtered. A water conditioner is often used in water turtle tanks to neutralise chlorine; if you are unsure about water quality, ask a vet.

Many reptiles, especially snakes and turtles, defecate in warm water because it stimulates the gut. That is why soiled water must be changed straight away and the bowl washed and disinfected so bacteria do not multiply.

Choose products whose label says they are suitable for animal housing or terrariums, and strictly follow the dilution and contact time. After disinfecting, surfaces usually need to be rinsed well and dried before the animal goes back in.

Diluted bleach is sometimes used to disinfect an empty enclosure and equipment, but its fumes are harmful to reptiles. If you use it, follow the label, rinse thoroughly with clean water, air it out and only then return the animal; never mix it with other cleaning products.

Avoid strongly scented household cleaners, phenols, ammonia, aerosol air fresheners and products not intended for animals, because their residues and fumes irritate the airways. Never mix different chemicals, as toxic gases can form.

Remove droppings, urates and food leftovers daily and change the water daily, while the whole enclosure with substrate and decor is deep-cleaned periodically – how often depends on size, substrate and the number of animals. Bioactive enclosures with beneficial organisms are maintained differently.