FAQ: Health for reptiles

It means feeding the feeder insects nutritious food for a day or two before they are given to the reptile, so they are more nourishing. Special diets, vegetables or greens are used; it complements, but does not replace, dusting with calcium.

Powder sticks better to insects that have just eaten a moist vegetable, while dry, active insects shake it off quickly. Dust them right before feeding and do not use too much, as the excess just falls onto the substrate.

Older reptiles often move and eat less, so some are given supplements less often or have their diet adjusted to avoid an excess. A vet will decide whether your animal needs this based on its weight, condition and, if needed, tests.

A female uses a lot of calcium to form eggshells, so her need rises during the laying period. Females of some species lay infertile eggs even without a male, so it is worth discussing a supplement plan with a vet.

Calcium is usually sprinkled on greens for plant-eating reptiles, as many vegetables are relatively low in calcium. What matters most is still a varied, species-appropriate plant diet and UVB lighting, and a vet will advise on supplement frequency.

The right humidity depends heavily on the species: desert lizards usually need dry air, while tropical snakes and chameleons need much more humid conditions. Learn your species' needs and track humidity with a hygrometer, as the wrong humidity often causes skin and breathing problems.

A hygrometer shows air humidity, so you can see whether it matches the species' needs rather than guessing. Digital units with a probe are usually more accurate than small dial gauges, and the probe should sit at the animal's level, not right next to the mister.

Humidity is usually raised by misting, a larger water bowl in a warmer spot, a moisture-holding substrate or sphagnum moss, and a partly covered mesh lid. Do not overdo it: a constantly wet substrate and stagnant air encourage mould and skin infections.

Better ventilation, a smaller water bowl, less frequent misting and a drier substrate all help. If condensation constantly forms on the glass or mould appears, the humidity is too high and the airflow should be improved.

A hand sprayer is simple and suits enclosures that need misting only occasionally, while an automatic system mists regularly on a timer and is handy for humidity-loving species such as chameleons. Either way, use clean water so no limescale is left on the glass and plants.

A fogger raises humidity quickly and suits some tropical species, but it needs regular cleaning because standing water inside it is soon contaminated with bacteria. Use distilled or boiled and cooled water and do not let the enclosure become constantly wet.

Filtered, distilled or standing water is often chosen for misting, because hard water leaves limescale on the glass and clogs the nozzles of automatic systems. The water must be clean and the sprayer washed regularly.

It is an enclosed hide filled with damp sphagnum moss, coco fibre or another moisture-holding material, where the animal can spend time in higher humidity. It is especially useful during shedding, even for species from dry regions such as leopard geckos.

Replace the moss or other damp filling as soon as you notice mould, a bad smell or droppings, and regularly in any case, because bacteria multiply quickly in a warm damp spot. Keep it damp but not soaking wet.

Air that is too dry can lead to difficult shedding and dehydration, while an enclosure that is too humid and poorly ventilated encourages respiratory and skin infections. That is why humidity is worth checking daily and adjusting to the particular species.

Hygrometers can drift and become inaccurate over time, so it is worth checking them now and then – for example by comparing with another device or calibrating according to the manufacturer's instructions. If readings suddenly change for no clear reason, suspect the device first.

In winter central heating dries the room air, so enclosure humidity often drops and more misting is needed, while in summer it may rise on its own. That is why humidity is worth checking with a hygrometer all year round, not just when setting up the enclosure.

Young, fast-growing reptiles shed more often and adults less often, and the frequency also varies by species. Snakes usually shed their whole skin in one piece, while lizards shed in patches, so a lizard's skin peeling in pieces is normal.

Before shedding a snake's eyes turn cloudy blue, its skin looks dull, and it often hides and refuses food. At this time it is better to handle it less and make sure it has the right humidity and a humid hide.

If patches of skin remain, raised humidity, a humid hide or a short lukewarm soak often help, after which the skin comes off on its own. Do not pull it off by force, especially from the eyes; if it will not come off or eye caps remain, see a vet.