FAQ: Food for reptiles

Some snake species eat birds, fish or amphibians, so frozen chicks, quail or fish are sold for them. For most popular pet snakes rodents remain the staple, and other prey is given only to suit the species.

Rats are larger and more nutritious, so they suit bigger snakes that outgrow mice. One prey item of the right size is often better than several small mice, as the snake eats fewer times.

Newborn mice are sometimes fed to some larger lizards and skinks, but they are high in fat, so for most lizards they are only an occasional item. They are usually not recommended for leopard geckos and bearded dragons.

Regurgitation is often caused by temperatures that are too low, prey that is too big, stress or handling after feeding. It drains the snake, so wait a few weeks before feeding again, and see a vet if it happens again.

Offer the thawed and warmed rodent on long tongs, keeping your hand away from the snake's head. Once the snake strikes, let go and let it eat in peace, then wash your hands.

Quality shows in whether the rodents were frozen quickly, are not dried out, frosted or damaged, and stayed frozen during transport. Poorly stored prey may be less nutritious or less appealing to the snake.

Frozen reptile food is shipped in insulated boxes with ice packs, so choose fast delivery and be home when it arrives. On arrival, put the rodents straight into the freezer if they have not thawed.

Snakes that eat whole prey of the right size usually get all the nutrients they need, so supplements are generally unnecessary. If the prey is always the same or the snake is ill, talk to a vet about supplements.

Dried insects – crickets, mealworms, soldier fly larvae or shrimp – keep a long time and are convenient, but lose some moisture and vitamins. Aquatic turtles, some skinks and dragons often eat them, while insect-eating lizards often refuse them.

Usually not. Live insects encourage hunting, contain more moisture and can be gut-loaded, while dried ones work only as an extra or backup food. For some lizards they can be mixed into greens.

Soak dried insects briefly in water before serving so they soften and are easier for the reptile to swallow. They can be given from a bowl, with tongs or mixed into vegetables.

An opened pack of dried insects is kept tightly closed in a cool, dry place and used within the time stated on the pack. If the insects get damp, go mouldy or smell odd, throw them away.

Canned insects keep more moisture than dried ones and some reptiles like them better, but once opened they must be used quickly and kept in the fridge. They are a handy backup when live insects run out.

Frozen insects keep more nutrients than dried ones and are easy to store, but they need thawing before feeding. They suit reptiles that eat non-moving food better, such as aquatic turtles or skinks.

A dedicated pelleted bearded dragon food can supplement the diet, especially for adults, but it does not replace fresh greens and live insects. Many dragons only eat it moistened or mixed with vegetables.

A high-fibre pelleted tortoise food can be a useful extra, especially in winter when fresh weeds are scarce. Greens, weeds and hay remain the staple, and pellets are given in moderation.

Look at which species the food is for, how much protein and fibre it has and whether it is heavy on grains or sugar. Herbivores need high fibre and low protein, while aquatic turtles need a protein level suited to their species and age.

No. Dog and cat food has too much protein, fat and vitamin A for reptiles, so over time it can damage the liver and kidneys. Reptiles need food made for their species.

Pour a little water over the dry pellets and leave them for a few minutes to soften. Any moistened food not eaten within a few hours is thrown out, as bacteria grow in it quickly.

It is a powder mixed with water into a purée for crested, day and other fruit-eating geckos. It is balanced to their needs, so it can be their staple alongside insects.