FAQ: Food for reptiles

It means feeding insects nutritious food for 24–48 hours before giving them to the reptile, so their gut contains vitamins and minerals. The reptile then gets more nutrients along with the insect.

Insects are often given leafy vegetables, carrots, squash, a dedicated insect gut-load food or a dry mix with calcium. Fatty or processed food that does not improve the insects' nutritional value is avoided.

Dedicated gut-load foods are convenient because they balance minerals and vitamins, and some also provide moisture. They can be combined with fresh vegetables to make insects more nutritious.

No. Gut loading improves the insects' nutritional value, but most insects still contain less calcium than phosphorus. So the insects are still dusted with calcium powder according to the reptile's needs.

Avoid giving insects unwashed vegetables with pesticide residue, spoiled or mouldy food, or dog and cat food that is too high in protein. Whatever the insect eats ends up in the reptile too.

Put the insects in a bag or tub with a little calcium powder and shake gently until they are lightly coated. Feed the dusted insects straight away, as the powder falls off quickly and the insects clean it off.

Young, fast-growing reptiles and egg-laying females usually get calcium more often than adults. The exact frequency depends on the species, UVB and the supplement's make-up, so follow the label and ask a vet.

Yes, an excess of vitamin D3 and vitamin A in particular can harm a reptile. So supplements are used sparingly, following the label, and reptiles with UVB more often get calcium without D3.

Reptiles need more calcium than phosphorus in their food, otherwise calcium is absorbed less well. Most insects and some vegetables are higher in phosphorus, so calcium supplements and suitable greens are used.

Calcium powder tops up the main mineral need and is used more often, while multivitamins provide vitamins and trace elements and are usually used less often. They should not be mixed together unless the manufacturer says so.

For herbivorous and omnivorous reptiles such as tortoises and bearded dragons, greens are often dusted with calcium powder too. Damp leaves hold the powder better, so they can be lightly sprinkled with water.

A common rule is that the prey should be no thicker than the widest part of the snake's body. Frozen mice are sold by size or weight, from newborns to adults, so you move up a size as the snake grows.

A frozen mouse is thawed in the fridge or at room temperature in a sealed bag, then warmed in warm water to around body temperature before feeding. It must be fully thawed all the way through.

A microwave heats unevenly: ice can remain inside while some parts cook or burst. This can harm the snake, so prey is thawed gradually and warmed in water.

No. A thawed rodent the snake did not eat must be thrown away, because refreezing and thawing again lets bacteria multiply. So thaw only as much as will be eaten.

Frozen rodents are kept in the freezer in a sealed bag or box, separate from human food. Stored well they keep for several months, but those that look dried out or frosted are best used sooner.

A bigger pack is often cheaper per mouse, but snakes grow, so you may need the next size up within a few months. Consider how many mice the snake will eat over a few months and whether you have room in the freezer.

A well-warmed prey item, offered on tongs with a little movement in the evening in a calm setting, often helps. Some snakes take longer to switch, so be patient and ask a vet or experienced breeder for advice.

Some keepers feed snakes in a separate box so they do not link opening the terrarium with food and do not swallow substrate. Others feed in the terrarium on a flat surface or plate. Both work, but do not handle the snake after feeding.

After feeding, snakes are usually left alone for at least a day or two so they digest calmly and do not regurgitate the prey. During this time the terrarium must be properly heated.