FAQ: Food for reptiles

Adult uromastyx eat mostly leafy greens, flowers and dry seeds or lentils, with few insects, mainly when young. Plan their diet for the species, since too much protein is harmful to them.

Both work as staple insects: crickets are livelier and encourage hunting, while dubia roaches are meatier, silent and live longer in a tub. Many keepers use both for a more varied diet.

For young dragons, greens are chopped very finely, into pieces no bigger than the space between the eyes, so they can swallow easily. Finely grated vegetables or flowers help get a juvenile used to plant food.

Day-active reptiles are fed during the day, once they have warmed up under the lamps and are active, because heat is needed for digestion. Nocturnal and twilight reptiles such as leopard geckos and many snakes are fed in the evening.

Reptiles need warmth to digest, and at low temperatures food digests slowly and may rot or be regurgitated. So check that the terrarium is at the right temperature before feeding.

Reptiles kept together are safer fed separately or at least under supervision, as they may fight over food and one may eat more than the other. Snakes are always fed separately so they do not grab each other by mistake.

The risk is low with specially bred insects, but unhealthy or poorly kept insects can carry bacteria or parasites. Buy lively insects, keep them clean and throw away dead ones.

Squash, courgettes and pattypan squash suit tortoises and bearded dragons as variety and a moisture source. They are grated or finely chopped and mixed with leafy greens.

Grated carrot suits dragons and some tortoises in small amounts, as it is rich in beta-carotene but also contains some sugar. Carrots are also often used to gut-load insects.

Seedless sweet peppers suit bearded dragons and some tortoises as colourful variety that encourages eating. Hot peppers must not be given to reptiles.

These larvae can be given to adult dragons for variety, but their fat and chitin make them a poor staple. Crickets, locusts or roaches and a large share of greens usually remain the staple.

Put the worms in a smooth-sided dish with edges high enough that they cannot crawl out but the gecko can reach in easily. Keep the dish in the same spot so the gecko learns to look for food there.

Yes, crickets breed in a warm tub with moist substrate for egg-laying, food and egg crates. It saves money but takes space, warmth and patience, and crickets are noisy and smelly.

Locusts are sold by life stage, from small hoppers to adults, which can be quite large. Smaller locusts suit young dragons and other medium-sized lizards, while adults suit large lizards.

Yes, aquatic turtles happily eat crickets, roaches and earthworms dropped into the water, especially youngsters. Insects add to pellets and plants but do not replace them.

Yes, aquatic turtles often eat or uproot live plants, so many keepers treat them as food rather than decor. Fast-growing floating plants add to the diet and are easy to replenish.

Yes, moistened pellets are often mixed with chopped greens so the tortoise eats them more readily. Keep the pellet amount small so greens and fibre stay the main part of the diet.

No. The strength and make-up of human supplements do not suit reptiles and may contain too much vitamin D3 or A and additives. Reptiles get supplements made for them, following the label and your vet's advice.

Bird and reptile supplements often differ, particularly in vitamin D3 content and additives. It is safer to use calcium powder made for reptiles, whose label clearly says whether it contains D3 and phosphorus.

Boiled eggs are sometimes given to omnivorous and carnivorous reptiles, such as blue-tongued skinks or monitors, as a protein source. They are fatty, so they are given rarely, and they do not suit herbivorous reptiles such as tortoises or iguanas.