FAQ: Supplies for dogs

Throw toys away when they are torn or small pieces come off, collars and leashes when the stitching is frayed or buckles are cracked, and bowls when they are scratched or chipped. Replace the bed when the filling has flattened and the dog can feel the floor.

Keep food in a closed container in a cool, dry place, and medicines and parasite products out of reach of children and the dog. Walk gear is handy by the door: leash, bags, treat pouch and a towel for paws.

Both work if they fit well. A harness puts less pressure on the neck, so it is often recommended for puppies, dogs that pull and flat-faced breeds, while a collar is handy for the ID tag and for dogs that walk calmly by your side.

A 1.2–2 m leash usually suits everyday walks in town. A long 5–10 m training line is useful when teaching recall or letting the dog sniff more freely in open spaces.

A retractable leash gives freedom in quiet places, but it is harder to shorten quickly and the thin cord can cause burns. Near roads, in busy places and for a dog that pulls, a regular fixed-length leash is more practical.

A muzzle is needed where the rules require it, for example for some breeds in public places or on public transport, and for vet procedures. Choose a basket muzzle that lets the dog pant, drink and take a treat.

Start with a treat placed at the bottom of the muzzle so the dog puts its nose in by itself, then gradually increase the time with the muzzle fastened. Train in advance, before you need it, so the muzzle isn't linked only with unpleasant situations.

Usually small treats, a treat pouch on your belt, a regular and a long leash and a favourite toy as a reward are enough. Some trainers also use a clicker, which helps mark the desired behaviour precisely.

A clicker is a small device that makes a click to mark the moment your dog does what you want. First teach the dog that a click is always followed by a treat, then click exactly during the behaviour you want.

Most vets and trainers don't recommend them, as they can cause pain, injure the neck and increase fear or aggression. Pulling is more effectively trained with a well-fitting harness and positive reinforcement.

A harness with a front chest clip helps, as it gently turns the dog to the side when it pulls. At the same time, teach loose-leash walking: stop when the leash goes tight and reward the dog when it comes back to your side.

They exercise a dog's mind and nose, slow down eating and help tire it out without leaving home. They are especially useful for energetic and young dogs and for those that move less because of illness or injury.

Leave the carrier open in a room with a soft mat and some treats inside so the dog explores it on its own. Start closing the door briefly while the dog eats calmly inside, and gradually increase the time.

Set up a quiet hiding place with a bed, draw the curtains and put on background noise, and only walk the dog on a leash at such times. If the fear is strong, talk to a vet well before the holidays; they can advise on calming options or behaviour therapy.

Pheromone products help some dogs feel less stressed, for example when moving house or during holidays, but the effect varies and research results are mixed. They can support training, but for strong fear see a vet.

Start with short sessions: touch the paws, show the brush or clippers and reward with a treat right away. Gradually make the session longer, and if the dog gets scared, go back a step, as rushing creates lasting fear.

It gets dark early in autumn and winter, so a light-up collar, a reflective harness or a clip-on light helps drivers and you see the dog in the dark. This matters most if the dog runs off-leash.

Only where the municipality's rules allow it, such as dog parks, and only if your dog reliably comes back when called. In town and near roads, dogs usually have to be kept on a leash.

A comfortable harness that doesn't restrict movement, a bungee leash with a waist belt, a collapsible bowl and a water bottle. For long hikes on rough terrain, paw protection and a bright reflector are useful.

Long runs aren't recommended with a growing puppy, as its bones and joints are still developing. Small breeds usually wait until at least a year, large breeds until a year and a half or more; discuss the right time with your vet.