FAQ: Health for dogs

See a vet if the wound is deep or gaping, longer than a few centimetres, will not stop bleeding, is a bite, is on the eye, a joint or the belly, has a foreign object stuck in it, or if swelling, pus or heat appears and the dog feels unwell. Bite wounds are often deeper than they look.

Put clean gauze or cloth on the wound and press firmly for several minutes without lifting it to check. If blood soaks through, add another layer on top. Keep the dog calm and get to a vet as soon as possible — urgently if the bleeding is heavy.

Place a non-stick pad or gauze on the clean wound, put cotton wool or gauze between the toes to prevent rubbing, wrap the foot in padding bandage and cover it with self-adhesive elastic bandage. The bandage must not be tight. Keep such a bandage on only until you see a vet.

It is an elastic bandage that sticks only to itself, not to the fur, so it is easy to put on and take off. It is often used for the outer layer of bandages on paws or legs. Some have a bitter taste to discourage chewing. Wrap it without stretching, as too much tension can restrict blood flow.

Warning signs are swollen toes above or below the bandage, cold toes, a bad smell, a wet or dirty bandage, the dog constantly chewing or licking it, or limping more. In that case see a vet. How often to change the bandage is decided by the vet who put it on.

The usual options are a protective collar (cone), a recovery suit or a protective boot, depending on where the wound is. Saliva does not help wounds heal, and licking can irritate them, open stitches and cause infection. Keep the protection on as long as the vet advised.

Measure the neck circumference and the distance from the neck to the tip of the nose: the cone should be slightly longer than the muzzle so the dog cannot reach the wound, but not so long that it hinders eating and moving. Two fingers should fit between the collar and the neck. Size charts vary, so go by the maker's measurements.

A plastic cone protects all parts of the body most reliably but is uncomfortable and noisy. A soft fabric or foam cone is more comfortable for sleeping, but a determined dog can bend it. An inflatable collar is like a pillow around the neck and suits wounds on the body, but it often does not protect the paws and head.

It is a snug, stretchy garment that covers the dog's body so it cannot lick or scratch a wound on the belly or sides, for example after spaying. Many dogs find it more comfortable than a cone. Choose the size by chest girth and back length, and ask a vet whether it suits your dog's wound.

Stay close for the first few hours, reward the dog with treats and help it learn to go through doors and eat. Move things it may bump into, and raise the bowls or move them away from the wall. Most dogs adapt within a day or two; do not remove the cone without the vet's permission.

Most dogs can if the cone is the right length and the bowls are raised or wide enough for the rim to fit around them. Some dogs eat more easily with the cone briefly removed, but only under supervision and if the vet allows it. Make sure the dog drinks enough.

Check the wound daily, keep it dry and clean, and do not let the dog lick it, jump or run hard. Do not use ointments or other products without the vet's instructions. Redness, swelling, discharge, opened stitches or the dog feeling unwell are reasons to contact the clinic.

A hot spot is a sudden moist, red, painful skin inflammation that the dog licks and scratches even more. It can grow quickly, so see a vet as soon as possible to find the cause and get treatment. Until then, keep the dog from licking the area.

Even if the wounds look small, a bite should be seen by a vet, because teeth leave deep puncture wounds where infection easily sets in, and there may be more damage under the skin. On the way, gently rinse the area and apply pressure if it bleeds. Check the dog's vaccination status too.

Not without a vet's advice. The dog licks the ointment off, and some ingredients in human ointments can be harmful to dogs. An ointment may also seal a wound that needs different treatment. If you think the wound needs an ointment, talk to a vet.

Put a waterproof protective boot or special bag over the bandaged paw for walks, and take it off when you get home so moisture does not build up underneath. A wet bandage must be changed, because moisture encourages infection. Keep walks short for the time being.

A protective boot is a sturdy, often waterproof boot that keeps an injured or bandaged paw safe from dirt, moisture and licking. Choose the size by paw width and check that it does not pinch. Do not leave it on for long indoors, so the paw can breathe.

Paw pads bleed heavily, so first press clean gauze on the cut and hold it for several minutes. Check for glass or other objects in the wound, but do not dig deep to remove them. Deep pad cuts often need stitches, so bandage the paw and go to a vet.

Spray-on bandage forms a thin film over a small superficial scrape and protects it from dirt. Some of these sprays are made specifically for animals. They are unsuitable for deep, bleeding or contaminated wounds, which should be seen by a vet. Use as the label directs.

It is useful to have sterile gauze, non-stick pads, padding and self-adhesive bandage, saline, a dog-safe antiseptic, blunt-ended scissors, tweezers, a tick remover, a digital thermometer, a muzzle, disposable gloves, a foil blanket and your vet clinic's contact details.