FAQ: Bowls & Feeders for dogs

A deeper bowl with inward-curving edges, a bowl with a floating plate or a mat with raised edges helps. Large and bearded dogs splash a lot, so it is worth keeping their bowl somewhere easy to clean.

Put the bowls in a quiet spot where the dog is not disturbed by people passing, away from its toilet area and out of draughts. The water bowl should always be reachable, and the food bowl should stay in the same place.

Yes, many people keep bowls in the kitchen because the floor is easy to clean. Just make sure the dog is not eating underfoot while you cook and that human food and hot pans are out of its reach.

A water bowl next to the bed is handy, especially for older dogs. A food bowl is usually not kept in the bed or crate all the time, so leftovers do not build up and the dog’s resting place stays clean.

A puppy does well with a shallow, heavy, non-slip bowl that it cannot tip over or chew. Stainless steel or ceramic is a practical choice, and the bowl can be swapped for a bigger one as the puppy grows.

Young puppies are often fed from a wide shared bowl or dish, but this makes it hard to see how much each one eats. As they grow, it is better to feed them separately so the weaker one does not get too little.

Puppies chew everything, especially while teething, and a light plastic bowl becomes a toy. Replace it with a steel or ceramic one that cannot be chewed, and give the puppy proper chew toys.

Young puppies are still learning to eat and often climb into a wide bowl. A shallow bowl with slightly higher sides or a slow-feeder plate where the food is spread out helps, so puppies do not jostle.

Replace the bowl when the portion no longer fits or the dog has to bend awkwardly or bumps its muzzle on the edges. Large-breed puppies often need a bowl change once or twice in their first year.

A stable, non-slip bowl suits an older dog, and a raised stand if bending is difficult. For dogs with poor eyesight, a bowl in a contrasting colour and a fixed location help.

Always keep the bowls in the same place on a non-slip mat so the dog finds them by habit and smell. Avoid moving furniture on the way to the bowls and choose heavy bowls that cannot be tipped over.

With a protective cone, a dog struggles to reach the bottom of a deep bowl or one standing against a wall. A wider, shallow bowl raised to a comfortable height and placed away from walls helps.

For dogs with megaoesophagus, vets often advise eating in an upright position, using special feeding chairs and tall stands. Always decide on the feeding method, food texture and position together with your vet.

If the dog vomits because it eats too fast, a slow-feeder bowl or smaller portions may help. However, frequent vomiting can have other causes, so it should always be discussed with a vet.

Eating fast and gulping large meals are considered among the risk factors for gastric dilatation-volvulus, so slow-feeder bowls and splitting food into several meals are often recommended for deep-chested dogs. These are preventive habits, not a guarantee.

A swollen, hard belly, unproductive attempts to vomit, restlessness, heavy drooling or weakness after eating can mean the stomach has twisted. This is an emergency, so go to a vet immediately.

Yes, it is best for each dog to have its own food bowl so you can see how much each eats and avoid conflicts. The water bowl can be shared if it is big enough and the dogs get along.

Feed the dogs separately, in different spots or even rooms, and pick up the bowls once they have all finished. Give the fast eater a slow-feeder bowl so it finishes around the same time as the others.

Put the cat’s bowl up high, for example on a windowsill or cabinet, or in a room behind a cat-only flap. Cat food is too rich for a dog and is not suitable as its regular diet.

Yes, there are feeders that only open when they recognise the pet’s microchip or collar tag. They help when dogs, or a dog and a cat, eat different food, such as a prescription diet others must not have.