FAQ: Bowls & Feeders for dogs

Vinegar or a citric acid solution dissolves limescale well: leave it in the bowl for a few minutes, scrub and rinse thoroughly. Do not use abrasive scourers on steel bowls, as they scratch the surface.

The main thing is that food remains are removed and the bowl is washed hot. Many owners use a separate sponge for dog bowls and wash raw-food bowls separately because of the bacteria risk.

Odour is usually held by scratched plastic that absorbs fat and bacteria. If the smell does not go away after a thorough hot wash, it is better to replace the bowl with a steel or ceramic one.

A steel or ceramic bowl can last many years as long as it is intact. A plastic one should be replaced once it becomes scratched, faded or holds smells, and any bowl with cracks or sharp edges should be replaced straight away.

A small dog needs a shallow, not too wide bowl so it can easily reach the bottom without stepping into it. The bowl should hold one portion with a little room to spare, not a whole day’s food.

A large dog needs a roomy and wide enough bowl so its portion fits without spilling and its muzzle does not bump the edges. The water bowl should be even bigger so it lasts longer.

Check how much food your dog eats at one meal and choose a bowl that holds that amount when filled about half to two-thirds full. Manufacturers usually state the capacity in millilitres, not grams of food.

Usually yes, because a dog needs more water and it must be available all day. A larger bowl empties more slowly, especially if the dog is left alone for long or it is hot outside.

Long-eared dogs such as spaniels or basset hounds do well with narrower, deeper bowls whose sides keep the ears out of the food and water. This keeps the ears cleaner and drier.

Flat-faced dogs find it easier to eat from shallow, wide or tilted bowls, because they struggle to get their face into a deep dish. A tilted base helps the food gather in one spot.

A tilted bowl is angled, so the food slides to one side and the dog can reach it more easily. They are often chosen for flat-faced and small dogs, as well as dogs that find it hard to lower their head.

Bearded dogs do well with narrower, deeper bowls so the beard gets less soaked. It is worth wiping the beard after eating and drinking, as leftover food in it can start to smell.

Yes, the shape determines how easily the dog can reach the food. Wide, shallow bowls suit flat-faced dogs, narrow, deep ones suit long-eared dogs, and straight sides help the dog lick it clean.

Inward-curving edges reduce splashing and food being pushed out of the bowl. They help with dogs that nudge their food with their nose while eating, and with water bowls in the car.

Raised bowls on a stand let the dog eat and drink without bending its neck as much. They are often chosen by owners of tall breeds, older dogs or dogs with joint and back problems.

The usual advice is for the rim of the bowl to be roughly at the dog’s elbow height or slightly below chest level when standing. Measure the dog from the floor to the elbow and choose a stand close to that height.

Research on raised bowls and gastric dilatation-volvulus is mixed, and some studies linked them to a higher risk in large, deep-chested dogs. If you have such a breed, it is worth discussing bowl height with your vet.

Yes, an adjustable stand suits a growing dog, because the height can be raised as it grows. It is also practical if you have dogs of different sizes at home.

Many older dogs with joint pain find a raised bowl more comfortable, as they do not need to bend their neck and front legs as much. It is a comfort aid, not a treatment, so discuss joint care with your vet.

Yes, the stand must sit firmly and not wobble when the dog leans on it or pushes it with its nose. Choose a wide base with non-slip feet, and heavier materials for large dogs.