FAQ: Treats for dogs

Chews with fur, such as rabbit ears or beef skin, act like a natural brush when chewed and add fibre. They suit many dogs, but for dogs with sensitive digestion the fur may be too much.

These are chews made from processed animal hide, pressed into a bone, stick or knot shape. They keep a dog busy for a long time, but wet hide becomes soft and large pieces can get stuck, so supervise the dog.

Many dogs chew rawhide without problems, but it is harder to digest than meaty chews, and softened pieces can block the throat or intestines. Give a suitably sized piece and take it away once it gets small.

Watch the dog: if it tries to vomit, coughs, chokes, stops eating, seems lethargic or has a painful belly, contact a vet straight away. Do not try to make the dog vomit without a vet's instruction.

Cooked or roasted bones become brittle and can split into sharp splinters that injure the mouth or intestines. Vets generally advise against giving cooked bones to dogs.

Raw bones are less likely to splinter, but they can still chip teeth, get stuck or carry bacteria. If you give raw bones, choose fresh ones of a suitable size and always supervise the dog.

Deer or elk antlers last a very long time, hardly smell and do not crumble, which makes them popular. However, they are very hard and can chip the teeth of strong chewers – split antlers are usually gentler.

A split antler exposes the softer inner core, which is easier and more pleasant to gnaw, so it suits gentler chewers or younger dogs. A whole antler is harder and lasts longer.

These are hard chews made from dried milk, usually yak or cow milk. They take a long time to chew, and many manufacturers suggest microwaving the last small piece so it puffs up into a crunchy treat.

Hard cheese chews usually contain very little lactose, so many dogs tolerate them. If your dog is sensitive to dairy, start with a small piece and watch its digestion.

Hard wood prepared specially for dogs, such as coffee or olive wood, usually breaks down into fine fibres rather than sharp splinters when chewed. Still, give it under supervision and replace it once it is heavily worn.

Ordinary sticks can split into sharp splinters that injure the mouth, throat or intestines, and some trees' wood can be harmful. It is safer to give chews or toys made for dogs.

Ingredients are listed in descending order of amount, so the first ones show what the treat is mainly made of. Look at the meat share, any sugar or artificial additives, and whether the product is complementary or complete.

Complementary feed means the product is not complete and on its own does not provide the dog with all the nutrients it needs. Most treats are of this kind and are meant to be given alongside the main food.

Sugar or syrups are sometimes added for taste, texture or longer shelf life. Dogs do not need sugar, so many owners choose treats without added sugar, especially if the dog tends to gain weight.

Dogs do not perceive colour the way people do, so colourings are added mostly for the owner's eye. Permitted colourings are generally considered safe, but for sensitive dogs many owners pick treats without artificial additives.

Single-protein treats are made from one animal protein source, for example only duck or only rabbit. They are handy when certain meats must be avoided or when working out what does not suit the dog.

Usually choose treats made from the same protein the dog gets in its diet food, or hypoallergenic treats approved by a vet. If the dog is on an elimination diet, discuss any treats with the vet first.

Most dogs digest grains well, so grain-free treats are not necessary. They may suit dogs a vet has found to be sensitive to certain grains, or owners who simply prefer a shorter ingredient list.

Warning signs include diarrhoea, vomiting, bloating, itching, licking or red skin. Stop giving the new treat, and if symptoms persist or are severe, see a vet.