FAQ: Toys for dogs

Repeated vomiting, loss of appetite, lethargy, a painful or bloated belly and inability to pass stool are warning signs. In that case the dog must be seen by a vet urgently.

This is an emergency: if the dog is choking, coughing or cannot breathe, go to a veterinary clinic immediately and call ahead. It is worth learning dog first aid in advance, for example on a course or from your vet.

Yes, especially once the toy is torn apart. If you cannot find the squeaker and the dog vomits, will not eat or behaves unusually, see a vet, and in future give squeaky toys only under supervision.

Do not chase the dog or pull the object by force, as it may swallow it faster. Offer a treat or another toy in exchange, and teach a release cue in advance.

Often it means the dog is a strong chewer, lacks exercise or stimulation, or the toy is too flimsy. Choose tougher toys, give soft ones only under supervision and add more walks and training to burn off energy.

Some dogs, especially from shelters or adopted as adults, never learned to play, and others do not like a particular type of toy. Try different toys, fill them with treats and play together, and discuss a sudden loss of interest in play with a vet.

They are soft tug or throw toys with a closable pocket for treats. They are useful for teaching retrieve and for getting dogs that rarely play interested in toys, because the reward can be given as soon as the toy is brought back.

Resource guarding is natural behaviour but can become dangerous, especially in families with children. Do not take the toy by force, teach the dog to swap it for a treat, and if the growling gets worse or the dog bites, contact a behaviourist.

Have more toys than dogs, and give especially valued toys and treat toys separately to avoid conflicts. Watch that one dog does not collect all the toys or take them from the other.

Children should not take toys from the dog's mouth or play roughly, and tug and throwing games should happen with an adult supervising. Teach children to offer the dog a toy and wait for it to let go on its own.

Hiding or burying things is natural dog behaviour for saving valuable items for later. It is usually harmless, but if the dog digs in the bed or sofa, offer sniffing games or a dedicated digging spot in the garden.

For many dogs it is a game: they are inviting you to chase or tug. Do not chase the dog; teach it to drop the toy at your feet or release it for a treat, and only then throw it again.

A dog left alone does well with durable stuffable rubber toys, treat dispensers and chews it already knows and cannot tear apart. Give the dog a good walk before you leave so it is tired and calmer.

A stuffed toy can help a dog cope with you leaving, but it does not solve strong separation anxiety. If the dog howls, destroys things or soils the house when alone, consult a vet or behaviourist.

A variety of toys, puzzles and sniffing games give the dog something to do, so it chews furniture, barks or looks for trouble less. But toys do not replace walks, company and training.

In a crate it is safest to leave a durable rubber chew or stuffable toy the dog cannot tear apart, not plush or rope toys. Make sure the toy cannot get stuck between the crate bars.

For many dogs a favourite toy is as good a reward as a treat: for the right behaviour, have a quick tug or throw the ball. Keep that toy for training only so it stays special.

Start with the take and drop cues, then reward the dog when it drops the toy over the box, and later when it puts it in. Repeat in short sessions and gradually increase the distance to the box.

Teach one toy at a time: say its name and reward the dog when it picks it up or touches it, then put another toy next to it. Some dogs learn many toy names, but it takes time and patience.

Ask the dog to wait, hide its favourite toy in another room and encourage it to search. Start with easy hiding places and make them harder once the dog understands the game.