FAQ: Collars & Leashes for dogs

Smart collars or devices attached to them can track the dog's activity and sleep, show its location or send notifications to a phone. They are useful for monitoring habits but do not replace a vet's check-up.

A bell helps you hear where the dog is, for example in a forest or large yard, and lets hunters follow a hunting dog's movement. Some dogs may find the constant ringing unpleasant, so watch how yours reacts.

You can use a silicone tag silencer, a slide-on plate attached to the collar or a collar with engraved details. This is especially handy at home and for dogs bothered by the constant noise.

These are tags that open the dog's and owner's contact details when scanned with a phone. They are handy because the details can be updated, but they do not replace a microchip and registration.

Attach the tag with a sturdy metal split ring or clip to a separate collar ring, not the one you clip the lead to. Check regularly that the ring has not bent open and the tag has not fallen off.

Update the details on the tag and in the pet register where the dog's microchip is registered. Outdated details can make it much harder to return a lost dog.

Start somewhere quiet: reward the dog when it walks by your leg, at first every few steps, later less often. The ‘heel’ command is best taught in short, frequent sessions rather than long, rare ones.

When a dog suddenly bolts, a long line slides quickly through your palms and can cause rope burns or grazes. Gloves protect your hands and give a firmer grip on the line.

When you meet someone, stop at a greater distance, ask the dog to sit and reward it while all four paws are on the ground. Keep the lead shorter but not tight, and do not let the dog reach the person by jumping.

A brief greeting can be fine if both dogs are calm and the owners agree, but tight leads increase tension and the risk of conflict. Keep the lead slack and move the dogs apart after a few seconds.

Traditionally in training a dog is taught to walk on the left, but for everyday walks consistency matters most, so the dog does not weave under your feet. Pick one side and stick to it.

For a new dog you do not yet know, an escape-resistant harness with a belly strap and a collar with an ID tag are safest. In the first weeks it is worth using two leads or a double-ended lead until the dog gets used to its new surroundings.

A yellow ribbon or label on a lead or vest is a widely used sign that the dog needs space – it may be fearful, recovering or in training. When you see such a dog, it is best not to approach or let your dog go up to it.

There are harnesses and vests with labels telling passers-by that the dog cannot see or hear, and some have a protective halo around the head for blind dogs. For such dogs a well-fitting harness and a short lead are especially important.

Sled dogs pull hard, so for sport they need special pulling harnesses, and for everyday walks sturdy, well-fitting harnesses, as they easily slip out of collars. Loose-lead training is worth starting from puppyhood.

Dogs with strong, muscular necks suit wide, sturdy collars with a metal buckle or well-fitting harnesses. Since their head is often wider than their neck, the right size and reliable hardware matter most.

Giant breeds such as Great Danes or Newfoundlands need hardware rated for heavy loads, wide webbing and strong stitching. Before buying, check what weight the product is designed for.

Warning signs include a honking, goose-like cough, wheezing or breathlessness, especially when pulling on the lead or when excited. In that case use a harness and see a vet to assess the cause.

Yes, for a small dog a bulky buckle, a large clip and several tags can be heavy and uncomfortable. Choose light collars and small, light tags or engraved details.

A seat belt tether should be clipped only to a harness and kept short, so the dog is not thrown forward when braking and cannot fall out of a window. Never carry a dog on the front seat with an active airbag.