FAQ: Beds & Bedding for dogs

Steam can be used on fabrics that tolerate it, but foam, waterproof layers and faux fur can be damaged by heat. Check the label and let the bed dry completely before use.

In most cases vacuuming the bed once or twice a week is enough, and more often while the dog is shedding. This reduces the amount of hair, dust and dirt between washes.

For hygiene reasons it is better to wash bed covers and pads separately, since they carry a lot of hair, dirt and bacteria. Afterwards it is worth clearing hair from the machine's filter or running an empty cycle.

Let the mud dry, then shake out and vacuum the bed and clean the remaining marks with a damp cloth. To keep the bed cleaner, wipe the dog's paws before it gets into bed.

Mould forms when the filling stays damp for a long time. Do not keep the bed in damp places, dry it well after washing and towel the dog dry before it lies down, especially after rain or a swim.

A wet dog soaks the bed, so the filling may stay damp for a long time and start to smell. Towel the dog dry first, and you can lay an absorbent pad or an old towel on the bed.

Shake out and turn the bed regularly, wash according to the label, avoid hot drying and protect it from constant damp. Trimmed nails and a blanket on top also reduce wear on the fabric.

Replace the bed when it has flattened, the dog can feel the floor through it, the fabric is torn or the smell remains even after washing. A good-quality bed lasts longer, while chewed or very frequently washed beds wear out sooner.

Press the middle of the bed: if there is a dip that does not recover or you can easily feel the floor, the bed no longer does its job. This matters especially for older and large dogs.

If the bed has a zip, you can sometimes put in a new foam block or top up the fibre filling. It is worth doing if the frame and cover are still in good condition and only the filling has flattened.

Animal shelters sometimes accept clean, still usable beds, so it is worth asking them. Throw away torn or dirty beds according to your municipality's waste sorting rules.

In summer a dog does well with breathable fabric, a raised mesh bed or a cooling mat in a cool, shady spot. Fluffy and enclosed beds are best put away on hot days.

Put the bed in the coolest part of the room away from the sun, use a cooling mat or raised bed and always leave fresh water. If the dog pants heavily, is lethargic or weak, it may be overheating, so contact a vet urgently.

In winter warmer bolster beds, self-warming pads, fluffy covers and blankets work well, especially for short-haired, small and older dogs. Keep the bed away from cold floors and draughts.

One bed is enough for many dogs if the blanket is removed or the cooler side of the cover is used in summer and a warm pad is added in winter. Dogs that feel heat or cold strongly benefit from a separate seasonal bed or mat.

Most gel mats work without chilling and cool down by themselves once the dog gets off. Some may be briefly chilled, but only do so as the manufacturer instructs.

Raised beds with UV- and moisture-resistant fabric that dries quickly suit a terrace. Place the bed in the shade and do not leave it out in the rain if its filling soaks up water.

The kennel should be raised off the ground, dry and sheltered from wind, with a pad or insulating mat inside that does not absorb moisture. Check and change the pad regularly, because damp bedding keeps the dog poorly warm.

Blankets quickly get damp outdoors and can freeze, so in a kennel they often keep the dog less warm than they seem to. Moisture-resistant pads work better outside, and blankets need changing and drying often.

In the car a non-slip, easy-to-clean pad or bolster bed sized to the boot or seat works well. For safety, the dog should be secured with a dog seat belt or carried in a sturdy crate while travelling.