FAQ: Supplies for cats

Replace bowls and litter boxes when they get scratched or smells no longer wash out, scratching posts when the sisal is worn and toys when they fall apart. It is worth checking the condition of the items every few months.

Usually every 1–2 weeks is enough, and more often when the cat is shedding or has parasites. Use unscented detergents, as cats may dislike strong smells.

Hot water and washing-up liquid are enough for bowls, and a mild, unscented cleaner for the litter box. If you use disinfectants, choose pet-safe ones and rinse thoroughly with water.

Keep food in an airtight container in a cool place, litter somewhere dry near the box, and string toys in a closed box so the cat cannot play with them unsupervised. This keeps the home tidier and safer.

Cats quickly get used to the same toys, so it is worth hiding some and swapping them every week or two. That way old toys feel new again and you do not have to keep buying more.

The safest choices are things that get used up or are always needed, such as toys, treats or a comb. Only give food or litter if you know which ones the cat uses, as many cats are fussy.

Do not move the furniture, bowls or litter box, so the cat can find its way from memory. Toys with bells or rattles, mats of different textures by important spots and a guard at the stairs all help.

Three-legged cats usually adapt well, but a low-sided litter box, steps up to high places and non-slip flooring help. Keeping a healthy weight matters so the remaining legs are not overloaded.

Deaf cats often adapt well but cannot hear danger outdoors, so living indoors is safest for them. Communicate with gestures and light signals, and when approaching let the cat see you or feel the floor vibrate so it is not startled.

Follow the vet's plan, weigh the cat regularly and note changes in appetite, thirst and behaviour. A comfortable bed in a quiet spot and easy access to litter and water help the cat feel better.

Short daily play sessions with a wand toy, food puzzles the cat must roll to get kibble out, and bowls placed in different spots or on higher levels all help. Reduce weight slowly and according to your vet's plan.

Consider the distance from home, opening hours, whether the clinic offers emergency care and whether the vets are experienced with cats. Some clinics have separate waiting areas for cats, which means less stress from dogs.

First check whether the cat is injured and whether the kittens' mother is nearby. A vet clinic can check whether the cat has a microchip, and shelters will advise you on what to do next.

A pet passport, which records vaccinations and the microchip number, is needed for travel abroad, and at home it helps you keep track of vaccinations and other procedures. It is issued by a vet.

Set up a quiet room or hiding place with litter and water where guests do not go. Ask guests not to chase the cat and to let it come to them if it wants to.

An active family with children may suit a playful, people-friendly cat, while a quieter person may prefer a calmer adult cat. Shelter staff and breeders often know their cats' personalities well, so it is worth asking them.

Change the cat's routines gradually in advance, for example where it sleeps, and let it sniff the baby's things. The cat should keep its own spaces and attention, and the baby's cot should not be left accessible to the cat unsupervised.

Some diseases, such as ringworm, toxoplasmosis or rabies, can be passed to people. Regular vet care, parasite prevention and washing your hands after cleaning the litter box greatly reduce the risk.

Pet cats usually live about 12–18 years, and some even longer. Indoor-only cats generally live longer than free-roaming ones because they are less likely to be injured or catch diseases.

A happy cat usually eats well, uses its litter box, plays, grooms itself, rests in a relaxed way and seeks contact on its own. Prolonged hiding, poor grooming or aggression can signal stress or illness.