FAQ: Litter & Accessories for cats

For hygiene reasons it is not advisable to keep the box near where food is prepared, as dust and litter can spread around. Cats also dislike toileting near their food, which is often in the kitchen.

Only if the cat can always get there and the place is warm, safe and not too far away. Cats, especially older ones, often avoid a box that is in a distant, cold or noisy place.

Heat speeds up bacterial growth, so a box next to a heater can smell stronger. It is better to place it in a cooler, well-ventilated spot.

Take the usual box and litter so the cat finds a familiar smell in the new home. For the first few days keep the box in the quiet room where the cat is staying, and later it can gradually be moved to its permanent spot.

Give the new cat one quiet room with a box, food, water and a hiding place so it knows straight away where the box is. Place the box on the opposite side of the room from the food.

A cat that lived outdoors is used to going in soil, so at first you can mix a little soil or sand into the litter. Choose a roomy open box and fine litter, and gradually reduce the amount of soil.

A cool, smooth surface sometimes attracts a cat when urinating hurts or the box is unpleasant to it. This behaviour is often linked to urinary problems, so the cat should be seen by a vet first.

Loose soil in a pot reminds a cat of litter, especially if the box is dirty or uncomfortable. Cover the soil with stones or mesh and check that the box is big enough, clean and in a suitable spot.

Moving house, guests, renovation or a new animal can lead a cat to go in the wrong place or avoid the box. Keep the usual routine and clean boxes in quiet spots, and if the problem lasts, talk to a vet.

With several cats, scoop clumps at least twice a day and change all the litter more often than for one cat. The more cats use one box, the faster the litter becomes saturated and starts to smell.

Some cats do not want to defecate in the same box they urinate in, so a second box in another spot helps. Defecating elsewhere can also be linked to constipation or pain, so it is worth asking a vet.

Observation, a camera or temporarily separating the cats into different rooms helps. A vet can also advise on how to find out and check whether the cat has a health problem.

Some cats simply meow before or after toileting, but meowing, straining or squatting often without result can indicate pain. If this is new or keeps happening, see a vet, and immediately if a male cat cannot urinate.

A short burst of energy after defecating is normal and harmless in many cats. If you also notice straining, blood, diarrhoea or the cat seems to be in pain, talk to a vet.

Yes, unspayed females in heat and unneutered males mark territory with urine more often. Spaying or neutering often reduces this behaviour, so it is worth discussing with a vet.

If the cats have different preferences, different boxes can hold different litter. That way each cat has a spot it accepts, and you can see which litter they choose more often.

Shredded newspaper can work for a short time, for example after surgery or if you unexpectedly run out of litter, but it holds odour and moisture poorly. Longer term it is better to use paper or other litter made for cats.

Scoop only the clumps, using a scoop with suitable gaps so clean litter stays in the box, and keep the recommended depth. Firmly clumping litter and a sifting box also help you use less.

Many plastic boxes can warp or crack in boiling water, so it is better to wash them with hot but not boiling water and detergent. Stainless steel boxes handle heat better.

A light box on a slippery floor can shift when the cat jumps onto the edge and frighten it. Put a non-slip mat under the box and choose a stable box with a wide base.