FAQ: Perches for birds

Birds have favourite spots, so they often choose the same perch. If it hardly moves at all, sits fluffed up or eats little, that can be a sign of illness; if it is healthy, try making other perches more appealing, for example by hanging a toy beside them.

Yes, standing on one leg usually means the bird is relaxed and resting, keeping the other foot warm in its feathers. It is only a concern if the bird will not put weight on one leg at all, limps or the leg is swollen.

Rubbing against a perch or toys is often hormonal, mating behaviour, especially in spring. Shorter daylight hours, rearranging the cage and more activities can help, and if it persists, talk to a vet.

In a small cage two or three perches at different heights are enough, placed so there is room to move between them. If space is very tight, consider a larger cage and more time outside it.

It is a perch fitted to an open cage door or next to it, so the bird can step out and back in again. It makes letting the bird out and getting it back into the cage easier.

Take an untreated branch of a suitable thickness from a safe tree, wash it, dry it and sand off sharp ends. Screw a stainless steel bolt with a washer and wing nut into the end, and do not use glue, paint or varnish.

A heated perch should feel pleasantly warm, not hot, to the touch and run at the temperature the manufacturer specifies. If it seems too hot, switch it off and do not use it.

Only if the manufacturer states the model is suitable for outdoor use and the cord and connections are protected from moisture. Outdoors, damp and cold can damage electrical devices and put birds at risk.

Sets often include several perches of different thicknesses or materials, so they are a convenient way to give a bird variety. Before buying, check that the thicknesses suit your bird and that the perches will fit the cage.

Used perches can carry pathogens or parasites, especially wooden and rope ones that cannot be disinfected properly. Hard plastic or acrylic perches can be cleaned thoroughly, but natural ones are safer replaced with new.

Yes, a newly acquired bird should be quarantined in a separate cage with its own perches, dishes and toys, so any pathogens do not reach other birds. It is best to discuss the length of quarantine and health checks with a vet.

Many birds bathe more easily if there is a perch or platform at the edge of the bath where they can land and climb out. After bathing, wipe the perch and let it dry so no damp remains.

If the bird lands on the perch of its own accord, rests, wipes its beak or even sleeps there, it has accepted it. Watch that it does not avoid the perch and that its feet look relaxed on it.

If a plastic perch has cracked or has sharp edges, remove it so the bird is not hurt or swallow pieces. For a heavy chewer, wooden perches and chew toys are a safer choice.

A bird’s foot is sensitive, so do not force the splinter out or restrain the bird if it struggles hard. Contact a vet, and throw away the damaged or splintered perch.

Set the distance from the lamp to the perch according to the lamp manufacturer’s instructions so the bird does not overheat or get burnt. The bird should also have perches further from the lamp so it can choose its own spot.

Cotton rope is softer, kinder to the feet and easier to wash, but it frays sooner. Sisal rope is harder, rougher and stands up to chewing longer, but may be less comfortable for sensitive feet.

Large parrots need thick, tightly twisted rope perches made for their weight and beak strength. Because big parrots pull rope apart quickly, check the perch often and replace it as soon as it starts to fray.

Perches wrapped in natural seagrass, palm leaf or corn husk appeal to birds because they can be picked apart. They wear out quickly, so they work more as an activity than as a main perch.

A lava stone perch has a porous, rough surface that helps the bird wipe its beak and wear its nails slightly, much like a mineral perch. It works as one extra perch rather than as the main resting place.