FAQ: Perches for birds

Put the stand where the bird can be near the family, but not in the kitchen, where dangerous fumes can occur, and not by windows or doors that open. Avoid spots next to radiators, in strong direct sun or in draughts.

Large parrots need thick hardwood or other sturdy perches fixed with heavy bolts or brackets. Choose perches made for large species, because fittings for small birds may not withstand their weight or beak.

Bird perches should not give off a strong chemical smell. If you notice one, wash the perch in hot water and air it well, and if the smell does not fade, it is better not to use it.

Coloured perches made for birds are usually dyed with food-grade or bird-safe colours, but it is worth checking the manufacturer’s description. Never paint perches yourself with ordinary paint or varnish.

Thickness, surface and sturdiness matter more to birds than colour. Still, some birds initially avoid bright, unfamiliar colours, so they may get used to a natural wood-coloured perch more easily.

Fresh, resinous conifer branches are generally not recommended for bird perches, because the sap sticks to feathers and feet. Some bird toys are made from dried, untreated pine wood, but for perches deciduous trees are the safer choice.

Opinions differ on whether stone-fruit branches such as cherry or plum are suitable for birds, as parts of these plants can contain harmful substances. Apple, pear, willow or hazel branches are the safer choice.

Yes, many birds love stripping fresh branches with leaves and buds from safe trees such as willow or apple. They must come from unsprayed trees and be washed well, and wilted leaves should be removed in time.

It depends on the wood and the bird: soft willow may be chewed away in days in a parrot cage, while harder branches last for months. Replace branches when they are chewed up, cracked or no longer come clean.

Branches gathered in winter or after rain are damp, so wash them and dry them well in a warm room before putting them in the cage. Damp wood quickly goes mouldy in a cage.

Store spare perches somewhere dry and ventilated, away from household chemicals and pests. Before putting one in the cage, check it for mould, cracks or insects.

Dried-on droppings come off more easily if you soak the perch in hot water for a few minutes and then scrub it with a brush or a perch scraper. Afterwards dry the perch thoroughly.

Diluted vinegar is often used to remove limescale and grime from perches and dishes. After cleaning, rinse the perch well with clean water and dry it so no smell remains.

Steam removes dirt and some microorganisms without chemicals, so it suits hard perches and the cage. Wooden and rope perches must then dry completely, and the bird should be in another room while you clean.

Yes, perches press harder on an overweight bird’s feet, so the risk of bumblefoot is higher. Perches of varied thickness and softer ones are especially important for such a bird, and it is worth asking a vet about weight loss.

Stay calm, hold the bird gently and carefully snip the threads without touching the skin. If the toe is swollen, discoloured or bleeding, contact a vet without delay, and throw the perch away.

Yes, overgrown nails can stop the bird gripping the perch firmly, catch on rope or fabric and change how the foot sits. If the bird starts slipping or perching awkwardly, check its nails and, if needed, see someone experienced or a vet.

Night frights are common, especially in cockatiels: a sudden sound or shadow can make the bird jump and fall off its perch. A dim night light, a cage in a quiet spot and perches not too high above a hard floor can help.

Some birds, especially young ones, occasionally sleep clinging to the bars, and that is not always a problem. If it happens all the time, check that the top perch is the right thickness, does not wobble and is in a comfortable spot.

Yes, budgies and other parrots often hang upside down while playing or stretching, and it is natural behaviour. But if the bird cannot stand up or often falls, contact a vet.