FAQ: Perches for birds

Some owners briefly heat branches in an oven at low temperature to kill insects and their eggs. Do it carefully and keep watching, since dry wood can catch fire, and let the branches cool before putting them in the cage.

Replace a perch when it is badly chewed, cracked, mouldy, will not come clean, no longer holds firmly or its surface has become slippery. Rope perches are replaced when they fray, and mineral ones when they wear down or crumble.

A slightly chewed perch is not dangerous, but one that has been gnawed very thin can snap, and sharp splinters can injure the feet or beak. Replace such a perch with a new one in time.

A platform perch is a flat board where the bird can stand with its feet flat and rest. It is especially useful for older or ill birds, birds with foot problems, and doves.

A corner perch is a triangular board or perch fixed into a corner of the cage. It makes use of the corner without taking up much space and gives the bird a steady, quiet resting place.

A swing is both a toy and a perch for birds, since many like to rest on it. Still, the cage needs firm, fixed perches too, because not every bird feels safe on a moving surface.

It is a separate stand with perches, ladders and often dishes, where the bird spends time outside its cage. It gives the bird a safe place to be near people and reduces the chance of it perching on furniture or curtains.

A stand should be stable, the right height and suited to the bird’s size, with perches of different thicknesses. A tray to catch droppings and the ability to take the stand apart easily for cleaning are useful.

Yes, small tabletop stands suit budgies, cockatiels and similar birds when they are out of the cage. Place the stand away from the edge and keep the bird away from hot surfaces, cables and other pets.

It is a perch that attaches to a window, tiles or another smooth wall with suction cups so the bird can watch its surroundings or bathe. Suction cups can loosen over time, so check the fixing before every use and do not leave the bird unattended.

A shower perch lets some parrots bathe safely under a gentle, lukewarm spray with their owner. The water must not be hot and should be free of soap or shampoo, and the bird should not be forced if it dislikes bathing.

Birds enjoy watching what is happening outside, but a window can get too hot in the sun or too cold in winter, and draughts are common. Make sure the bird can move into shade, and never leave it by an open window.

Some birds like to sleep on a swing, which is fine if it hangs securely and is a comfortable thickness. Still, the cage should also have a stable high perch the bird can choose instead.

Young birds do better at first with lower, not-too-thin perches that do not wobble, so they are not hurt if they fall. Place perches near the floor and close to food, then add higher and more varied ones as the bird grows stronger.

Older birds often find softer rope perches, platforms and lower perches that are easy to reach more comfortable. If the bird can no longer reach the highest perches, reduce the distances between perches and their height.

Give such a bird low perches, platforms or flat boards so it does not have to climb high or grip a thin rod. Limping or weak legs should be checked by a vet, as they can indicate illness or injury.

For a bird that cannot fly well, arrange perches so it can easily climb from one to another, for example with ladders or branches. Do not place perches too high above a hard floor, so it is not hurt if it falls.

A bird may sit on the floor if the perches are the wrong thickness, slippery, too high or frightening, but it can also be a sign of illness or weakness. If an adult bird suddenly starts sitting on the floor, contact a vet without delay.

At first place the new perch next to the cage or low down, away from favourite spots, so the bird can inspect it from a distance. Once it is used to it, move the perch to where you want it; a treat placed nearby encourages some birds.

Some birds try a new perch straight away, while others take days or even weeks. The key is not to rush and not to replace every perch at once, so familiar spots remain in the cage.