FAQ: Health for birds

Remove all litter, sweep and wash the surfaces, perches and nest boxes, then use a disinfectant made for poultry housing according to the label. The coop must dry out and air before the hens go back in.

It is a condition caused by mites living under the leg scales, which makes the scales lift and thicken and crusts form. If you notice such changes, contact a vet and clean the coop and perches thoroughly.

Chickens need shade, good ventilation and plenty of cool, clean water. If a hen pants heavily with her beak open, holds her wings out and is lethargic, move her somewhere cooler and contact a vet.

Pigeon fanciers often use vitamin, mineral and electrolyte supplements during the racing or breeding season. Such supplements are worth agreeing with a vet and using only according to the label, so safe amounts are not exceeded.

Yes, pigeons like bathing in water, which helps keep their feathers clean. A bath is worth offering regularly, and the water should be emptied afterwards so the pigeons do not drink dirty water.

A loft needs regular removal of droppings, a dry environment with good ventilation, and feed protected from wild birds and rodents. New pigeons are worth quarantining before they join the others.

Before breeding, clean and dry the nest box and add new, clean nesting material. Clean it thoroughly again between broods, as droppings and moisture collect in the nest and mites can settle there.

It is safest to use nesting material made for birds, such as coconut fibre, dry hay or other short natural fibres. Avoid long synthetic threads and cotton wool, in which chicks can get tangled.

Healthy chicks are active, their crops are full after feeding and their weight goes up daily. If chicks are listless, cheep constantly, do not grow or the parents are not feeding them, contact a vet.

Breeding too often exhausts the hen, so breeders usually limit the number of broods and let birds rest between them. The right schedule for a particular species is worth discussing with a vet or an experienced breeder.

An old bird is worth giving lower, wider perches, putting its dishes closer and weighing it more often. Check-ups at the vet may be more frequent in old age, as age-related illnesses develop gradually.

An old bird is more comfortable on wider, flatter or softer-surfaced perches set lower down so it does not fall. Some owners also fit a platform where the bird can rest.

An ageing bird's needs can change, but supplements should be chosen only after talking to a vet who has assessed its health. Unsuitable supplements or too much of them can harm an old bird more than a young one.

Keep supplements tightly closed in a dry, cool, dark place out of children's reach. Light, moisture and heat speed up the breakdown of vitamins, so follow the storage conditions on the pack.

After the expiry date the active ingredients may have broken down and the product may have become damp or contaminated. It is better not to give a bird expired supplements and to buy new ones.

An opened pack often keeps for less time than the date on the unopened one, especially for liquid supplements. Check the label for how long the product lasts after opening, and note the date you opened it.

Check which bird species and ages the product is for, how to use it, for how long and what it must not be combined with. If the instructions are unclear or your bird is ill, ask a vet before using it.

Not necessarily: canaries, parrots, pigeons and chickens have different needs, so products are often designed for particular groups of birds. Choose a supplement whose label names your bird's species, and ask a vet if in doubt.

Use the measuring spoon or dropper supplied with the product and follow the method on the label rather than guessing by eye. For small birds even a small error can mean a large excess.

Gently put the bird in a ventilated box in a quiet, warm place and contact a wildlife rescue service or vet as soon as possible. Do not force food or water into it, and do not try to treat it yourself.