FAQ: Health for birds

Small birds have a very fast metabolism, so even a short period without food is dangerous for them. If a bird has not eaten for more than a few hours or a whole day, contact a vet.

Not all veterinary clinics treat birds, so it is worth asking in advance whether a clinic has an exotic animal or bird specialist. It is best to find the contacts before an emergency arises.

Many vets advise a routine check-up once a year, as early signs of illness are hard for owners to spot. The visit is also a chance to discuss diet, supplements and care.

Feathers hide weight loss for a long time, and weight loss is often one of the first signs of illness. Weighing the bird regularly at the same time of day and noting the results lets you notice changes sooner.

Digital scales showing weight in grams, such as kitchen scales fitted with a small perch or container, are suitable for weighing a bird. For small birds it matters that the scales are accurate to the gram.

It is useful to have the vet's contact details, a small carrier, a towel, a styptic powder made for animals, gauze and a source of warmth. Give the bird only medicines that a vet has prescribed.

Take the bird in a small, covered carrier that is warm and quiet. Bring a fresh droppings sample on paper and the names of the food and supplements it gets, and write down the changes you noticed.

It is a small, warm and quiet cage in which a sick bird can save energy. It is often used until the vet visit or during recovery, and the temperature and duration are worth agreeing with the vet.

Yes, separating a sick bird reduces the risk of infecting the others, and it can rest more quietly. The vet will advise how long to keep it apart.

Move the bird to a quiet, warm, dimmed cage or box and watch it. If it is bleeding, does not recover, struggles to breathe or holds its head or wing oddly, contact a vet without delay.

Contact a vet straight away and, if you can, bring the packaging of the object or substance. Do not try to make the bird vomit and do not give it anything without the vet's instructions.

Many poultry keepers leave oyster shell or another calcium source in a separate dish at all times for laying hens, so they can take it as needed. This matters especially if the hens eat more than just layer feed.

Thin shells are often linked to a lack of calcium, but age, heat, stress or illness can also be the cause. Make sure there is a calcium source and balanced feed, and if the problem continues, ask a vet.

Look for red mites in the dark or early morning at perch ends, in cracks and in nest boxes – greyish or red clusters are often visible. Wiping white paper under a perch can leave red smears on it.

Smooth, easy-to-clean perches and nest boxes, regular litter changes, sealing cracks and cleaning the coop all help. If mites appear, use products made for poultry and coops according to the label, and talk to a vet about treating the hens.

By bathing in dry sand or dust, chickens clean their feathers and naturally reduce parasites. A dust bath needs a dry spot sheltered from rain with loose sand or soil.

Some keepers add special powders to the dust bath, but only products made for poultry should be used, and only according to the label. Fine dust can irritate the airways, so avoid very dusty materials.

Chick starter feed usually already contains the vitamins and minerals needed. Supplements may be used in special cases, such as after transport, but only according to the label or a vet's advice.

The risk of internal parasites depends on how the birds are kept, so whether to worm and which products to use is best discussed with a vet. The vet may suggest a droppings test and say whether treatment is needed.

Feather pecking can be triggered by crowding, boredom, stress, overly bright lighting or gaps in the diet. It is important to improve housing and separate injured hens, and to ask a vet about the causes.