FAQ: Heating & Lighting for reptiles

During brumation some species are kept cooler and without a basking lamp, but this is only done with healthy animals and according to the species’ needs. Before the first brumation it is worth asking a vet, who can help set a safe temperature and duration.

A reptile may avoid the basking spot if it is too hot, too cold, or it feels unsafe, for example with no hides or a lot of movement nearby. Measure the surface temperature and check the lamp height, and if the reptile stays inactive or stops eating for long, see a vet.

If a reptile never leaves the basking spot, it may be too cold because the warm zone is too weak or small, or the cool side is too cold. Measure the temperatures on both sides, and if the behaviour does not change, ask a vet.

An overheated reptile often holds its mouth open, hides in the coolest spot, becomes sluggish or restlessly tries to escape. If you see these signs, check the temperature at once and reduce the heating, and if it does not improve, see a vet.

A reptile kept too cold is sluggish, eats less, digests more slowly and sometimes lies under the lamp for long periods or never leaves its hide. Prolonged cold weakens the immune system, so measure the temperatures and talk to a vet if the reptile does not improve.

Reptiles sense heat more slowly than mammals and can lie on a hot surface or near a bulb for a long time before getting burned. That is why every heater should be thermostat-controlled, lamps should have guards and skin damage should be seen by a vet.

Route the cables outside the terrarium, secure them and plug them into a good-quality extension lead that is not overloaded. Leave a small drip loop below the socket so water cannot run into it, and keep cables away from other pets and children.

Like any electrical device, heaters can be dangerous when misused: bulbs too close to materials, overloaded extension leads or plastic sockets. Use ceramic sockets, stay within the allowed wattage and regularly check cables and plugs.

Yes, many fixtures are designed to sit on top of a metal mesh lid, but they must not touch wooden or plastic parts of the terrarium. Check that the fixture is stable and does not heat the lid to a dangerous temperature.

Blue-tongued skinks usually need a warm basking spot, a cooler side and a UVB lamp, as they are active during the day. The basking spot is set up on a flat stone or board, and the heating is thermostat-controlled.

Uromastyx are desert lizards that like a very hot basking spot and strong UVB. They usually need a powerful basking lamp and a strong UVB tube, and the exact temperatures are worth checking for the specific species.

Chinese water dragons need a tall terrarium with a warm basking spot, a UVB lamp and high humidity. Since heating dries the air, lamps must be balanced with misting and a large water bowl, and temperature and humidity monitored constantly.

Yes, day geckos are active in daylight and get sun in the wild, so a UVB lamp and a gentle basking spot at the top are recommended. Their terrariums often have live plants, so the lighting must be bright enough.

Boas need a warm zone with a hide and a cooler side, and for large adults the warm area must be wide enough for the whole body. Ceramic heaters, infrared heaters or basking lamps with guards and a thermostat are used for heating.

Juveniles are smaller and warm up and cool down faster, so steady heating matters for them, and for some species their basking spot is kept slightly milder. In a small terrarium it is also easier to overheat the whole space, so temperatures need closer watching.

Yes, in a larger terrarium the same lamps may no longer be enough, and the UVB lamp may be too far from the reptile. After moving the animal, measure the temperatures again and choose stronger or longer lamps if needed.

Racks often use heat cables or heat tape under the enclosures, controlled by one or more thermostats. Each enclosure must keep a warm and a cool zone, and heat from the lower terrariums must not overheat the ones above.

Room heating helps keep a steady background temperature, but it does not create a basking spot or a gradient inside the terrarium. The reptile still needs its own heaters on a thermostat; room temperature just makes their job easier.

Yes, a lamp is often used for the daytime basking spot and a mat for extra warmth or night heating. Both must be controlled by separate thermostats, and together they must not overheat the same spot.

Coloured basking bulbs distort natural colours and give the reptile unnatural lighting. A white bulb resembling sunlight is usually recommended, as it mimics daylight better.