FAQ: Enclosures for reptiles

Many reptiles are solitary and do best kept alone, and when housed together they may fight and compete for heat and food. If the species suits a group, the terrarium must be larger, with several basking spots and hides.

Two males must not be kept together, as they fight, and females sometimes get along but may compete for resources. If you keep more than one, the terrarium must be larger with hides for each, and watch that none is losing weight.

Bearded dragons are usually kept alone, as housed together they may dominate each other and compete for the basking spot and food. Even if they seem to get along, the weaker animal may be under constant stress.

Mixing species is generally not recommended, as their temperature, humidity and dietary needs differ, and they may pass diseases to each other or cause injuries. Only experienced keepers do it, in very large, specially designed enclosures.

Some keepers feed snakes in a separate container so they do not swallow substrate, but moving a snake after feeding can cause stress or regurgitation. Many snakes are fed in their terrarium without problems, with food placed on a tile or offered with tongs.

A bigger terrarium is needed when the reptile can no longer stretch out, the terrarium has no clear warm and cool zones left, or the animal keeps trying to escape. For many species juveniles reach adult size within the first year or two.

Moving to a new environment can cause short-term stress, so the reptile may hide or eat less for a few days. Moving familiar hides or decorations over from the old terrarium and setting the temperature in advance both help.

A reptile travels in a sturdy, ventilated box with soft paper or cloth, and snakes often in a fabric bag inside the box. Keep the box at a steady temperature, away from sun and cold, and make the journey as short as possible.

Yes, it is safest to carry a reptile in a closed, ventilated carrier or box so it cannot escape or get hurt. In cold weather wrap the carrier in a blanket; a water bowl is usually not needed during the trip.

Usually the reptile stays in its own terrarium and a carer visits on an agreed schedule, as moving it causes more stress. Before leaving, check the timers and thermostats and leave clear instructions.

If a terrarium has to be moved, take out the animal, water, heavy rocks and decorations, as they shift and can break the glass. The substrate is often best removed or at least levelled, and the terrarium carried upright and protected from knocks.

A used terrarium can be a good choice if the glass is not cracked, the doors close tightly and the seams are intact. It must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before use, and old substrate and wooden decorations are best replaced.

Yes, many keepers build their own wooden or mixed-material terrariums, especially for large species. Use animal-safe, moisture-resistant materials and include proper ventilation, secure doors and space for guarded lamps.

Terrariums and aquariums use silicone without anti-mould additives, as these can be harmful to animals. The silicone must cure completely and no longer smell of vinegar before the reptile goes in.

Common mistakes include a terrarium that is too small, only one hide, the wrong substrate, no temperature gradient, poor ventilation and unsafely stacked rocks. You can avoid most of them by learning your species’ needs before buying equipment.

Nose-rubbing against glass often means the reptile is trying to escape, because the terrarium is too small, the temperature is wrong, hides are lacking or it sees its reflection. Check the conditions, and see a vet if nose wounds appear.

Covering the sides of a glass terrarium with a background or film can reduce stress, as the reptile sees less movement around it and fewer reflections. This helps especially with shy species and terrariums in busy areas.

Many terrariums have dedicated cable ports with grommets or plugs. If not, cables can be routed along the edge of the mesh with the gaps sealed so snakes or feeder insects cannot get out.

For most terrariums a mesh lid is needed for ventilation and so the UVB lamp can shine through. For humid species part of the mesh is sometimes covered so moisture does not evaporate too quickly.

Gargoyle geckos climb, so they suit a tall terrarium with branches, cork bark and plants, much like crested geckos. An adult is often recommended at least 45 × 45 × 60 cm with good ventilation and moderate humidity.