FAQ: Supplies for fish

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Many fishkeepers advise not to skimp on the heater and filter, since the fish’s lives depend directly on them and a faulty heater can overheat the water. Decor, backgrounds or nets can be simpler.

A spare heater, filter sponges, an air pump with an airstone and water conditioner are useful. If equipment fails in the evening or at the weekend, these spares help keep the fish alive until you get a replacement.

Yes, since most filters, heaters and lights work independently of each other. Just watch the dimensions: whether the light and filter fit under the lid, whether the hose diameters match and whether there is room in the cabinet.

First get a tank of adequate size, a reliable filter, a heater (for tropical fish) and water conditioner. Decor, plants and extras can be added later, and fish can be bought gradually.

Tanks are heavy and fragile, so delivering them often costs more than for ordinary goods. When comparing shops, consider the free-delivery threshold and whether the tank will be packed safely.

Before leaving, change some water, clean the filter at least a week in advance and check the heater and timer. For a longer trip, ask a neighbour or use an automatic feeder that you have tested while still at home.

Most fish survive a few hours without a filter, but for longer they need oxygen. A battery-powered air pump helps, as does covering the tank with a blanket to slow cooling and stopping feeding until the power returns.

Water in a filter that has stood still loses oxygen and builds up harmful substances. Before restarting such a filter, rinse its media in tank water so the dirt does not reach the fish.

Move the fish to buckets or bags of tank water, drain most of the water and keep the filter media wet in tank water. Never lift a full or half-full tank, as the glass and seams may not hold.

Carry the fish in sealed bags or containers of tank water and air, placed in an insulated box so the temperature stays steady. Do not feed them the day before the trip so the water stays cleaner.

A tropical tank in a cool room needs a stronger heater and a lid to keep the heat in. A cool room suits coldwater fish, but the water should not drop below the range that suits them.

Do not let direct sunlight fall on the tank: close the curtains, stick a background on the side panel or move the tank. Sun quickly overheats the water and triggers a sudden algae bloom.

After moving to another town or house, water hardness and pH can differ a lot. Before the first larger water change, test the new water and change it gradually so the fish can adjust.

Place the tank on a sturdy cabinet a child cannot tip over and cover it with a secure lid. Lift and tidy the power cables, and keep food, medicines and water treatments out of children’s reach.

It is a loop in the cable below the power socket, so that water running down the cable drips onto the floor instead of into the socket. It is very simple but an important safety measure for any aquarium.

Electricians recommend plugging aquarium equipment into sockets protected by a residual current device (RCD), which cuts the power if a fault occurs. Unplug the equipment before putting your hands in the water.

Cats often watch fish and may try to catch them through an open top or jump onto the lid. A sturdy, secured lid and a stable spot where the cat cannot push the tank over help prevent accidents.

Air fresheners, insect sprays, paint fumes or tobacco smoke can get into the water and harm fish. When spraying in the room, cover the tank and switch off the air pump so it does not draw pollutants into the water.

Yes. Before working, your hands should be free of cream, soap and perfume residue, and after putting them in an aquarium or pond, wash them with soap, as the water may contain bacteria.