FAQ: Food for fish

It contains more carotenoids, such as spirulina or astaxanthin, which intensify red and orange colours. It is usually given in warm weather when the fish feed actively, and white areas of the scales can sometimes turn yellowish from it.

Floating food lets you see how much the fish eat and skim off leftovers easily, and the fish come to the surface where you can check them. Sinking food suits shy fish or bottom feeders such as tench.

Not recommended. Bread has little nutritional value for fish, swells and breaks down quickly, so it pollutes the water and encourages algae; pond fish food is a better choice.

The most common reasons are water that is too cold, stress from predators, poor water quality or plenty of natural food in the pond. If the fish suddenly stop eating in warm water, test the water and watch for signs of illness.

Pond sticks are usually too big and float too long for small aquarium goldfish, especially fancy ones. Goldfish granules or flakes that match their size are more suitable in an aquarium.

In a well-established pond healthy fish can manage a week or two without extra feeding, as they find natural food. For longer, use an automatic pond feeder or ask a neighbour.

It depends on the number and size of the fish and the water temperature. Buy a large pack only if you will use it up in one season, because opened food loses vitamins and can get damp over the winter.

A break of two or three days usually does not harm healthy adult fish, so extra feeding for a weekend is normally unnecessary. To keep the water clean while you are away, change some of it a few days before leaving.

Holiday food is tablets or blocks that dissolve slowly in the water and release food over several days or a week. They are convenient but can pollute the water, so test how your tank reacts to them before you leave.

Some blocks are calcium-based and can raise water hardness slightly, while others cloud the water as they dissolve. Their effect is stronger in a small tank, so use them as the label says and test them before the trip.

An automatic feeder has a food container and a timer that rotates or opens a compartment at set times and drops a portion. Depending on the model, it suits granules, flakes or sticks.

Check what type of food it is for, how many feeds per day can be set, whether the portion is adjustable and whether it runs on batteries or mains power. It also matters whether the container is protected from moisture, as damp food clumps.

At least a few days to a week before leaving, so you can adjust the portion and make sure the feeder works reliably. Watch whether the food jams and whether the fish eat the whole portion.

Usually because of moisture: the feeder sits too close to the water surface or under a lid where condensation collects. Mount it as high above the water as possible or choose a ventilated model, and switch from flakes to granules.

Pack each day’s portion in a separate pot or bag in advance and explain that no more should be given. Inexperienced people often overfeed fish, so it is better to put the rest of the food away.

Granules or small pieces suit most feeders best, as they flow easily and clump less. Flakes can jam, so check the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Long breaks harm fry, so when going away ask a neighbour to feed them several times a day or use a feeder with fine food and several feeds. Change some water before the trip so it is as clean as possible.

No, fish cannot eat in reserve, and the extra food just sinks and starts to rot. It is better to feed normally until you leave and arrange for someone else or a feeder to feed them.

After a break the fish seem very hungry, but their digestion has adjusted to less food. For the first few days give normal or even smaller portions and change some of the water.

Keep the food tightly closed in a dry, cool place away from sunlight and the heat of the light. Do not take it with wet fingers or keep it on the aquarium lid, where it gets damp.