FAQ: Toys for cats

A rechargeable toy needs no battery changes but must be charged regularly, with the cable kept out of the cat's reach. With a battery-powered toy it matters that the battery cover is screwed on securely.

Switch the toy off and let the cat sniff it first while it is still. Later turn it on briefly, at the lowest speed and further from the cat. If she is still afraid, don't force it, as not every cat likes such toys.

A flopping fish toy switches on when touched and greatly interests some cats, especially those that like to kick. Choose a sturdy, washable model and don't leave the cat with it if she chews fabric.

Self-propelled mice can trigger the hunting instinct, especially if they change direction and hide under furniture. They work best on smooth floors, and their tails or antennae should not be easy to chew off.

Some cats eagerly chase moving objects on a screen, but they can never catch the prey, so it is worth offering a real toy at the end. Fit a screen protector against claws and play only under supervision.

Charge the toy out of the cat's reach and put the cable away afterwards, as cats like chewing cables. Don't charge a damaged or wet toy, and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

An automatic toy usually moves in the same rhythm, and a cat soon figures it out. Switch it on only occasionally, change the modes and alternate it with other toys, and the interest will last longer.

A timer stops the toy running too long, so the cat does not get overtired or lose interest, and the batteries last longer. Some toys switch on by themselves several times a day, adding variety while the owner is away.

Kittens should have only light, slow-moving electronic toys without small parts, and only under supervision. For a young kitten, playing with a person matters most, as that is how it learns to use claws and teeth appropriately.

Switch the toy off and remove the batteries before cleaning, then wipe it with a damp cloth or wipe. Removable fabric or feather attachments can be washed separately, but never immerse the electronics in water.

Motion-sensor toys switch on when the cat approaches, so they feel more like responsive prey and save batteries. They can also switch on at night, though, so it is better to turn them off at bedtime.

A food puzzle is a toy or board from which a cat has to fish out kibble or treats with her paw or nose. It exercises the mind, slows eating and resembles natural foraging.

Start at the easiest level: place treats or kibble so the cat can reach them straight away, and help her the first few times by showing her. Increase the difficulty only once she solves it easily.

Yes, part or even all of the daily dry food ration can be given through puzzles if the cat solves them well. Check that she eats the full amount, and don't leave her hungry if the task is too hard.

A lick mat is a silicone or rubber pad with grooves on which wet food or pâté is spread. The cat licks it for a long time, which calms her and slows eating.

It is a hollow ball with holes that is filled with dry food or treats. The cat rolls it and the pieces fall out one by one, so she moves and earns her food as if hunting.

For a first puzzle pick a simple model in which the food is easy to see and reach. Later you can move to harder ones with drawers or lids, especially for clever and active cats.

Wash the puzzle in warm water with mild dish soap, especially after wet food, and dry it well. Some plastic and silicone puzzles are dishwasher-safe if the manufacturer says so.

Yes, puzzles, treat balls and lick mats make a cat eat more slowly, so vomiting straight after a meal happens less often. If your cat vomits frequently, still talk to a vet.

Yes, but it is worth giving each cat her own puzzle and placing them in different spots. That way the cats don't squabble over food and you can see how much each one eats.